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BISCHOFFS 



"AMERICA ABROAD" 



GUIDE 



FOR 



American Tourists in Europe. 



< W . 



COPYRIGHT SECURED 



J-- 



THOMPSON & MOREAU, PRINTERS, 

NOS. 51 & 53 MAIDEN LANE. 






NOXONIHSVm 
SS3HOMO0 JO 



[THE LIBRARY 
OW CONGRESS 

([WASHINGTON 



TABLE OF CONTENTS. 



Introductory, .... 
General Plan, 

CHAPTER I. 

Language, . . . . 

Money, 

Expense of a Trip, . . ... 
Passports, ..... 
Diplomatic and Consular Agents, , 
Customs-inspection, . . . 

CHAPTER II. 

Plan of Tour, ..... 

Season, 

Companions, 

Excursions on Foot, 

Guides, 

CHAPTER III. 

Conveyances, .... 

Maps, ...... 

Hotels, Gratuities, 



PAGE. 

xi 
xv 

1 

2 
3 
4 
6 
10 

12 
12 
13 
14 
15 

18 

22 
22 



iv Table of Contents. 

CHAPTER IV. 

PAGE. 

New York City, 27 

Hotels, 29 

Sights . .30 

Theatres, ....... 31 

Steamers to Europe, . . . . 33 

The Passage, 35 

CHAPTER V. 

great britain. 

London, ...•....*. 40 

Hotels _ . . . 42 

Sights, ........ 43 

Theatres, 44 

CHAPTER VI. 

Ireland and Scotland, . . • . . . 46 

CHAPTER VII. 

GERMANY. 

Berlin, 48 

Hotels, ....... 50 

Sights, 50 

Theatres, ....... 51 

Routes 51, 57 and 59 



liable of Contents. 



Cologne, 

Hotels, 

Sights, .... 

Theatres, .... 

The Rhine, .... 

Rhine boats, .... 
Bremen 

Hotels, 

Sights, .... 

Theatres, .... 
Hamburg, 

Hotels, ..... 

Sights, .... 

Theatres, .... 

CHAPTER VIII. 

AUSTRIA. 

Vienna, 

Hotels, .... 

Sights, . 

Theatres, . ... 

Routes, . . . . 
Prague, 

Hotels, 

Sights, .... 

Theatres, .... 



PAGE. 

51 
52 
52 
53 
55 
56 
58 
58 
59 
59 
59 
60 
60 
61 



63 
64 
64 
64 
65 
65 
66 
66 
66 



vi Table of Contents. 

CHAPTER IX. 

FRANCE. 

PAGE. 

Paris, . . . . . . . . . 72 

Hotels, . . . . • ... 73 

•Sights, ........ 74 

Theatres, . 74 

Routes, 75 

Marseilles, 77 

Hotels, ........ 77 

Sights, . 77 

CHAPTER X. 

HOLLAND. 

Rotterdam, 80 

Hotels, . 80 

Sights, . . j 80 

The Hague, 81 

Hotels, . ...... .... . 81 

Sights, ....... 81 

Theatres, . .. ... ■ . 82 

Amsterdam, ....... 82 

Hotels, - . . . 82 

Sights, 82 

Theatres, 83 

Routes, 83 



Table of Contents. 



VII 



Antwerp, 

Hotels, 
Sights, 
Theatres, 

Brussels, 

Hotels, 
Sights, 
Theatres, 
Routes, . 



CHAPTER XL 

BELGIUM. 



PAGE. 

85 
86 
86 
86 

86 

87 
87 
87 
87 



-/ 



CHAPTER XII. 

switzerland. 

Bale, . . 95 

Hotels, 95 

Sights, 96 

Berne, 96 

Hotels, . . 98 

Sights 98 

Zurich, 98 

Hotels, 99 

Sights, . 99 



Vlll 



Table of Contents. 



PAGE. 

Lucerne, 100 

Hotels, ....... 100 

Sights, . . . 100 

Geneva, 100 

Hotels, 102 

Sights, . 102 



CHAPTER XIII. 

ITALY. 

Milan, 109 

Hotels, 110 

Sights, 110 

Theatres, Ill 

Venice, . .113 

Hotels, 113 

Sights, .113 

Florence 114 

Hotels, 115 

Sights, 115 

Theatres, 116 

Rome, 116 

Hotels, . . 118 

Sights, • 119 



Table of Contents. ix 

PAGE. 

Naples, . . 119 

Hotels, 121 

Sights, . . .'~ - . . . . 121 

Theatres, 122 

CHAPTER XIV. 

Direct Routes on the Principal Railways 
of the Continent. 

Germany, 124 

Austria, 127 

France, . . 127 

Holland, 128 

Belgium, . . 129 

Switzerland, . 129 

Italy, 130 

CIRCULAR TOURS. 

From Paris, 131 

From Stations in Germany 

To Saxony and Bohemia, .... 132 

To Bavaria, Saxony and Austria, . . 132 

To Austria and Hungary 133 

To Thiiringia and Harz Mountains, . . 134 

To the rivers Rhine, Main, Mosel and Saar, . 134 

From Berlin, 135 

From Bremen, 136 



Table of Contents. 



From Stations in Belgium 

To the Rhine, 137 

To Holland, 137 

To Flanders, . . . . . . 137 

To the Meuse, 137 

From Stations in Italy 

. To Northern and Central Italy, . . . . 138 

To Central and Southern Italy, . . . 138 

FOREIGN MONEY 

AND ITS COMPARATIVE VALUE IN THE UNITED 
STATES. 

Germany, . . . . . . . . . • 139 

Austria, . . . . . . . 140 

Holland, 140 

Great Britain, 141 

France, '. • 142 



INTRODUCTORY. 

By foreign arts, domestic faults to mend, 
Enlarge our notions and our views extend, 
The useful science of the world to know 
Which books can never teach, nor pedants show. 

Lord Lyttleton. 

It is intended in publishing the following pages, 
First : To supply, in as brief a manner as possible, the 
travelling public with that information which ordinarily 
practical experience alone can furnish, namely: such 
suggestions as the tourist will find of general utility on 
his travels ; and by posting him as to the preparations 
necessary for travelling, and pointing out such possible 
phases as may "turn up" during his journey, to dispel 
that vague sensation of doubt and uncertainty usually 
accompanying every first attempt of a trip to a 
foreign country, and, Second: To insure to the 
tourist, or traveller generally, as much as practi- 
cable, that immunity from extortionate demands on 
his purse by hotel-keepers, etc., and dependence 
on guides, commissionaires, etc., to which the 
ordinary tourist in Europe is subjected, and in giving 
some practical hints on judicious economy of time 



xii Introductory. 

and money, enable him, the more thoroughly and in- 
telligently to understand, enjoy, and appreciate such 
objects of interest as he may encounter on his tour. 
The magnificent scenery of the Rhine, its legends, etc., 
the historic treasures of London, the sublimity and 
the awe inspired by the majestic height of the Alps 
are conceded by all to be unrivalled ; but an intelligent 
traveller will certainly enjoy these attractions more in- 
tensely after having gained, in some manner, a general 
outline and idea of the beauties in store. Even a 
superficial acquaintance with the legends of the Rhine, 
for instance, adds in a great degree to the charm of 
a trip on that beautiful river, and a knowledge of the 
story of the Lurlei, Mausethurm, and other "sagas" 
associated with its rugged castles, cannot but heighten 
the interest of even the most callous and prosaic of 
characters, 

If, after perusing the following pages, and after 
accomplishing the trip contemplated, the unbiased 
reader will frankly acknowledge that their contents 
contribute in some degree to the above object, the am- 
bition of the writer will be amply realized. 

A little preparation in respect to studying the 
general geography of the country, the customs of its 



Introductory. xiii 

people, etc., will be found eminently serviceable, for 
" He who would bring home the wealth of the In- 
" dies, must carry the wealth of the Indies with him — 
" so it is with travelling ; a man must carry knowledge 
" with him, if he would bring home knowledge," and it 
is just in proportion to the information he takes with 
him concerning the country about to be visited, that 
he will bring home information from that country and 
will have profited by the journey. 

The writer has compiled the entire contents of 
the book, from notes of personal observation, and the 
countries described have been repeatedly visited by 
him within the last seven years. As the cities, etc., 
are subject to some changes every year, infallibility is 
not claimed, although such changes are generally of an 
insignificant character ; the writer will be grateful for 
any information with which he may be favored by 
travellers, providing the data communicated are of 
their own experience. 

E. W. BISCHOFF, LL.B., Dr. Jur. 



GENERAL PLAN. 

The author deems the plan observed in the work, 
the most advantageous, as it introduces the various 
subjects in the natural order in which they would fol- 
low on the tour itself. We will first consider the pre- 
parations necessary to travelling generally, with par- 
ticular reference to a Continental trip. For tourists 
unacquainted in the metropolis, we give a concise de- 
scription of the city, briefly mentioning such objects 
of interest that may enable the traveller to spend a 
day or two profitably before leaving for Europe. After 
giving the names of the lines of steamers directly com- 
municating with the continent of Europe, we describe 
the continental countries and their principal cities, at- 
tractions, hotels, etc. At the end of each chapter an 
itinerary through the country is added, in which we 
confine ourselves (for the sake of brevity), as much as 
possible, to the most frequented and favored routes. 



CHAPTER L 

1 . LANGUAGE. — The more thorough one's acquain- 
tance with the language of the country about to be 
visited, the greater will be the pleasure and knowledge 
derived. This is particularly applicable to those who 
contemplate exploring the more unfrequented districts 
of the Continent. Should, however, the tourist not 
intend deviating from the beaten track, he will gener- 
ally find that English and French are usually spoken 
at the principal hotels, and the ordinary resorts of 
foreigners, although even here, a slight knowledge of 
the vernacular may prove very serviceable, as strangers 
entirely ignorant of the language are naturally more 
subjected to the extortions practiced by cab-drivers, 
waiters, etc., which even the suggestions of the most 
experienced will be powerless to avoid. It may be 
noticed here, that as a general rule, the charges of 
cab-drivers, messengers, etc., are regulated by police 
ordinances, an extract of which they are, under a pen- 
alty, bound to carry with them, though they are usually 
very reluctant to produce their " tariff." Should the 



2 America Abroad. 

tourist suspect an attempt at extortion, their tariff 
should be demanded. In cases where the money is 
already exacted, a threat to call an officer will gener- 
ally insure a ready restitution of the surplus charges. 

2. MONEY. — It is advisable, for the tourist to provide 
himself before starting, with the current money of the 
countries he proposes visiting. This can either be 
done by taking with him banknotes of large denom- 
inations or procuring drafts or circular notes drawn 
on the principal cities of the Continent. 

German, French and English paper and gold are 
everywhere favorably received, (20 marks =$4.75 = 
19^ shil.=:24 T 5 o ¥ fcs. = 25 lire=i2 fl., Austrian). In 
Austria and Italy gold still commands a premium, 
when converted into the paper currency of the respec- 
tive country. 

The German mark contains 100 phennig. The 
banknotes are of the denomination of 5, 20, 50, 100, 
500 marks and upwards ; the coin of 1, 2, 5 marks. 
There are also base metal pieces as follows : nickel 5 
and 10 phennig, and 1 and 2 phennig copper pieces. 

The English notes consist of : 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 
300 jQ and upwards. (Ireland and Scotland also issue 



America Abroad. 3 

1 £ notes.) Guinea pieces (21 shillings) are now 
very rare ; the coin in circulation are : 1, % £ gold, 
and 3, 4, 6 pence silver, single shillings, 2 shillings or 
florins, 2% shillings and 5 shilling pieces. Also pence 
and half-pence copper. 

France, Belgium, Italy and Switzerland, belonging 
to the same monetary union, have francs, (in Italy 
lire). -There are 5, 10, 25, 50, 100 franc notes and 
upwards, and 20, 50 centime pieces ; and 1, 2 and 5 
franc silver coins. The franc has 100 centimes or 20 
sous or soldi. 

Austria issues 1, 5, 10, 50, too, etc., gulden or florin 
notes, and 1, 5, 10, 20 and 50 kreutzer pieces. The gul- 
den has 100 kreutzers. There are also, silver gulden 
and thaler pieces. 

Holland reckons in guilders, stivers and cents, and 
issues denominations as above. 

3. EXPENSE OF A TRIP.—K variety of circum- 
stances come into consideration when calculating the 
expense of a tour on the Continent and in Great 
Britain. It may, however, be stated generally, that 
travelling in Germany, Belgium and Italy is less ex- 
pensive than in most other European countries, par- 



4 Aj?ierica Abroad. 

ticularly when availing oneself of the advantages 
offered by almost all European railways, namely of 
taking circular tickets of which we add a list at the 
end of this volume. These tickets generally include 
all cities of importance between the starting point and 
destination, are liberally limited as to time, and effect 
a saving of one-third to one-half of the regular fares. 
The tourist of moderate requirements, especially 
when having attained a tolerable proficiency in the 
language, and the pedestrian avoiding the beaten 
track of ordinary travellers as much as possible, may 
succeed in confining his expenditure from $2.50 to 
$3.50 per day. Those, however, who avail themselves 
of all public conveyances, frequent hotels of the highest 
class, employ the services of guides, porters, etc., 
must be prepared to expend $6.00 to $10.00 and more 
daily. 

4. PASSPORTS. — As a rule, passports are not re- 
quired now, but of late, on account of the nihilistic and 
socialistic agitations, strangers are often subjected to 
serious inconveniences when entering some European 
cities without a proper identification. This is notably 
the case in Hamburg, Berlin, Frankfort, Leipzig, 



Amej'ica Abroad. 5 

etc. A passport will frequently also prove very ser- 
viceable in establishing one's identity in cashing checks, 
procuring admission to private art galleries, collec- 
tions, etc., obtaining delivery of registered letters, and 
letters addressed poste restante. 

By act of Congress, approved June 20, 1874, a fee 
of five dollars is required to be collected for every 
citizen's passport. A passport is good only for two years, 
and is procured by making sworn application before 
a notary and remitting citizen's paper with tax, to the 
Secretary of State at Washington. American citizens 
abroad desiring to obtain a passport must apply to the 
chief diplomatic representative of the United States 
in the country in which it is intended to be used ; 
or, in the absence of a diplomatic representative, to 
the Consul-General or Consul, a list of 'whom we give 
below. As the stranger will be apt to have greater 
difficulties in proving his identity abroad than at home, 
it is advisable, in all cases, to procure a passport be- 
fore undertaking the trip, and thus insure that tran- 
quillity of mind above all requisite to the traveller for 
the full enjoyment of a pleasure trip. 



America Abroad. 



DIPLOMATIC AND CONSULAR AGENTS. 

D . j ENGLAND. ^ , . 

Residence. Salaries. 
London — Envoy Extraordinary and Minister 

Plenipotentiary $i 7,500 

London — Secretary of Legation 2,650 

London — Assistant Secretary of Legation . . . 2,000 

London — Consul-General 7>5°° 

Liverpool — Consul . 7>5°° 

Tunstall — Consul i>5°° 

Southampton — Consul 2,000 

Sheffield—Consul 2,500 

Manchester — Consul 2,000 

Leeds — Consul 2,000 

Bristol — Consul Fees 

Plymouth — Consul Fees 

Falmouth — Consul Fees 

New Castle — Consul Fees 

Cardiff — Consul Fees 

Birmingham — Consul 2,000 

SCOTLAND. 

Glasgow — Consul $3,000 

Dundee — Consul 2,000 

Leith — Consul Fees 



America Abroad. 7 

r> -7 IRELAND. „ , 

Residence. Salaries. 

Belfast — Consul $2,000 

Cork — Consul 2,000 

Dublin — Consul Fees 

Londonderry — Consul Fees 

AUSTRIA. 

Vienna — Envoy Extraordinary and Minister 

Plenipotentiary $12,000 

Vienna — Secretary of Legation 1,800 

Vienna — Consul-General 1,500 

Trieste — Consul 2,000 

Prague — Consul Fees 



GERMAN EMPIRE. 

Berlin — Envoy Extraordinary and Minister 

Plenipotentiary $17,500 

Berlin — Secretary of Legation 2,625 

Berlin — Assistant Secretary of Legation 2,000 

Cologne — Consul 3,000 

Frankfort — Consul-General 3,000 

Aix-la-Chapelle — Commercial Agent 2,500 

Berlin — Consul \ . . Fees 

Bremen — Consul .' $3,000 



8 



America Abroad. 



n . 7 GERMAN EMPIRE. , . 

Residence. Salaries. 

Stettin — Consul 1,000 

Geestemtinde — Commercial Agent Fees 

Munich — Consul 1,000 

Nuremberg — Consul Fees 

Augsburg — Consulor Agent Fees 

Dresden — Consul Fees 

Leipzig — Consul Fees 

Chemnitz — Consul Fees 

Hamburg — Consul 2.oco 

Brunswick — Consul Fees 

Crefeld — Consul Fees 

FRANCE. 

Paris — Envoy Extraordinary and Minister 

Plenipotentiary $17,500 

Paris — Secretary of Legation 2,625 

Paris — Assistant Secretary of Legation. 2,000 

Paris — Consul-General 6,000 

Bordeaux — Consul 2,000 

La Rochelle — Consul 1,500 

Lyons — Consul 1,500 

Nantes— Consul 1,500 

H vre — Consul 6,000 



America Ab?-oad. 



Residence. FRANCE - Salaries. 

Nice — Consul I ? QO 

Rheims — Consul . . . . p ees 

Marseilles — Consul 2,500 

HOLLAND. 

The Hague — Minister Resident $7,500 

Rotterdam — Consul „ . . 2 000 

Amsterdam — Consul 1,000 

BELGIUM. 

Brussels — Minister Resident $7,500 

Brussels — Consul j? ees 

Antwerp — Consul 2,500 

Liege and Verviers j? ees 

ITALY. 

Rome — Envoy Extraordinary and Minister 

Plenipotentiary $12,000 

Rome — Secretary. of Legation 1,800 

Rome — Consul-General 1,500 

Florence — Consul * j? ees 

Geneva — Consul 1,500 

Messina — Consul 1,500 



io America Abroad. 

Residence. Salaries. 

Naples — Consul. 1,500 

Palermo — Consul J^oo 

Spezzia — Consul 1,500 

Leghorn — Consul 1,500 

Carrara — Consul Fees 

Ancona — Consul Fees 

Venice — Consul . 750 

SWITZERLAND. 

Berne — Minister Resident $7,5°° 

Basle — Consul 2,000 

Geneva — Consul 1,500 

Zurich — Consul . . 1,500 

5. CUSTOMS-IHSPECTION.— The formalities of in- 
spection are now almost everywhere lenient, although 
much depends in this respect upon the individual in- 
spectors. A demand by the officials to open satchels, 
trunks, etc., should, in all cases, be readily complied 
with, as a refusal or reluctance only tends to create 
suspicion and cause delay. By no means put yourself 
at the mercy of a custom-house officer by offering a 
bribe. 



America Abroad. n 

As a rule, articles purchased during the journey and 
not destined for personal use should be "declared" 
at the frontier. At some custom-house stations, (in 
Austria, Italy, etc.,) playing-cards, almanacs and seal- 
ed letters are confiscated if found. In Austria, France 
and Belgium tobacco is a Government monopoly, and 
this will perhaps be the case in the German Empire, 
sooner or later. In that event the liability to pay duty 
will be even more strictly enforced. New silks, laces, 
jewelry, preserves, sugar, etc., are all dutiable. All 
articles worn or already used, and generally one copy 
of books, etc., are exempt. Those who pay duty on 
segars or other articles on crossing the frontiers should 
preserve the receipt, otherwise they may be compelled 
to pay a second time (frequently on entering towns 
where civic imposts are still levied). Trunks, etc., not 
containing articles to be used during the ocean pas- 
sage or en route should be sent to the principal stop- 
ping place of the traveller "direct" when they will be 
inspected at their final destination, and thus save the 
tourist considerable delay at the intermediate frontier 
stations. 



12 America Abroad. 



CHAPTER II. 



1 . PLAN OF TOUR. — A considerable saving of time 
and expense will be effected by the tourist, by care- 
fully preparing his plan of travelling before setting 
out. It will be the aim of the writer to enable the 
traveller to ascertain how each day may be profitably 
spent, although unfavorable weather would influence 
the carrying out of a prescribed tour to some extent. 

2. SEASON. — For excursions among the moun- 
tains of Germany, Austria and France, or a trip 
through Great Britain, Holland and Belgium, the 
most preferable season would be from July to the mid- 
dle of September, while for tours to the Alps, August 
is most suggestive of pleasure. Italy and lower France 
are most favorable for a visit in the latter part of Sep- 
tember, and during the months of October and Novem- 
ber. Even in midsummer the Alpine passes are occa- 
sionally rendered difficult to travel by snow storms, 
though they are of very rare occurrence. The danger 
of avalanches in the Alps is greatest in the Spring and 
more particularly at noon. Lower Austria, the south- 



America Abroad. 13 

era Alpine region and the Italian lakes may, to the 
more hardy tourist, be attractive as early as the begin- 
ning of June, a time when the melting of the moun- 
tain snow tends to increase the many waterfalls and 
thus heighten the beauty of that region. Those fond 
of southern fruit, such as figs, oranges, grapes, etc., 
arriving at perfection in Autumn, should not visit lower 
Austria and Central Italy before October, particularly 
as the cooler atmosphere then prevailing will render 
walking and mountain climbing less irksome. 

3. COMPANIONS.— -The tourist travelling singly, 
who has acquainted himself more or less with the 
language, customs and geography of the country, will 
of course have the most favorable opportunity of 
studying the people, observing their peculiarities and 
gaining information concerning their land. This rule 
may frequently also be applicable to a party of two 
who are "well matched " and are in perfect harmony 
with each other, and under these circumstances the 
tour may even be less expensive, as two travellers 
can usually be accommodated for comparatively less 
in a light conveyance, or occupy the same room at a 
hotel. A third will, with rare exceptions, be found 



14 America Abroad. 

de trap, and the greater the number is extended the 
readier will this rule apply. We all know the adage 
that "many men have many minds," and this is emi- 
nently true of travellers in a party. The obstinacy or 
whim of one of the party will often be maintained at 
the expense of the esprit and good-fellowship of all, 
and may perhaps frustrate the enterprise entirely. 

4. EXCURSIONS ON FOOT.— ¥ ox a foot tour of 
one or two weeks, several flannel shirts, two pair of 
worsted socks, light shoes or slipper?, and the requisite 
toilet articles, carried in a game-bag over the shoulder 
will usually suffice. To this equipment a light ulster and 
an umbrella can be advantageously added. Strong and 
well-tried boots are absolutely essential to the comfort 
of the pedestrian, who unquestionably is the most inde- 
pendent of travellers and most competent both physically 
and intellectually, to enjoy the beautiful scenery with 
which the Continent of Europe is replete. Of course, 
the traveller should provide himself with a more ex- 
tensive reserve of clothing than the above, especially 
if he contemplates visiting towns of importance, but 
even this should be limited to articles that can be con- 
veniently packed into a valise which, if necessary, could 



A?7ierica Abroad. 



15 



also be taken with him or forwarded from town to 
town by post. As a rule, it may be stated, that the 
less the tourist is burdened with impedimenta the 
more perfect will be the pleasure of the trip. North- 
ern Germany offers many attractions and picturesque 
districts to the pedestrian, such as the Saxon Switzer- 
land, the Thuringian Forest, the Harz, the Giant 
Mountains, the environs of Kiel and the island of 
Riigen. The student of art is strongly recommended 
on this tour to visit the cities of Dresden, Berlin and 
Copenhagen, and the archaeologist will find many 
objects to interest him in the ancient towns of Hildes- 
heim, Liibeck, Bremen and Hameln, while the histor- 
ian will find an ample field at Wittenberg, Leipzig, etc. 

5. GUIDES. — Thanks to the efforts of the Alpine and 
Tourist's Clubs in Europe great improvementshave been 
introduced among the guides within the last few years, 
especially in the more frequented parts of Germany, 
Switzerland, etc. A system of fixed charges has been 
established, and the standard of intelligence of the 
guides and members of similar fraternities has been 
raised. They are as a class intelligent, honest, and 
generally well informed in the districts of their im- 



to America Abroad. 

mediate vicinity. The usual fee for a tour of some 
length is $2.00 to $3.00 a day in Austria, Italy and South 
Germany ; but the charges for the longer and more 
difficult glacier expeditions in the Alps are considerably 
higher, and are fixed by special schedule. Mules 
(sommaro) and saddle horses {cavallo), can be had at 
almost every inn. Each guide is obliged to carry fif- 
teen pounds of baggage. Inasmuch as the individual 
who, as guide, is perhaps to be his sole companion 
for several days, a certain degree of unreserve should 
exist between guide and tourist. We cannot, of 
course, determine beforehand to what degree this good 
fellowship should be carried, but the discriminating trav- 
eller will soon be able to judge whether it be judicious 
at times to share the contents of his cigar case or flask 
with his guide, and if the contents is no better than 
the average native manufacture he will find that like 
"mercy" its bestowal "blesseth him that giveth and 
him that takes " as it plays less havoc with the stom- 
ach of the mountaineers than it usually does with the 
less hardy tourists. The guides furnished by inn- 
keepers are often obliged to hand over their fees or 
the greater part of them to their employer, and they, 
in consequence, importune the tourist for an extra 



America Abroad. 



17 



gratuity or Trinkgeld. In remote regions, where the 
traveller has no alternative but to apply to his inn- 
keeper for a guide, he must occasionally submit to 
these extortions. Guides are often rendered unneces- 
sary, for crossing mountain passes, by indications of 
the route by means of heaps of stones, crucifixes 
(especially in Rhenish and Southern Germany) and 
posts. 




1 8 America Abroad. 



CHAPTER III. 



1. CONVEYANCES.— Railways : In Belgium, Ger- 
many and Italy travelling by rail is cheaper than in 
England and most other parts of Europe. The car- 
riages are generally comfortable and clean and are of 
three classes. (Germany and some other countries on 
the Continent also have a fourth class unprovided with 
seats). The second class cars, furnished with cush- 
ioned seats, are most commonly used by tourists, and 
frequently compare favorably with those of the first 
class in England. They are arranged to seat eight to 
ten persons commodiously in each of the six coupes 
of which the car consists. The carriages of the first 
class, lined with velvet, are comparatively little em- 
ployed, but offer inducements to the lover of fresh air, 
as he will be more likely to secure a seat next to the 
window. For short distances the third class may 
be used unhesitatingly, being patronized by a quiet 
and inoffensive community, are tolerably clean, and in 
Summer perhaps even cooler than the first and second 
classes. Smoking is prohibited only in carriages so 
marked, or in special coupes for ladies. The fares for 



America Abroad. 19 

the various classes, average four, three and two cents 
per English mile respectively, but in France and Aus- 
tria they are a trifle higher. The railways on the Con- 
tinent, particularly in Austria and Germany, are either 
under the immediate superintendence of, or are en- 
tirely controlled by the respective governments, and 
are without exception well organized and safe ; the 
latter somewhat at the expense of speed, which 
seldom exceeds twenty-five miles per hour. In Ger- 
many, Austria, etc., fifty pounds of baggage are free 
in addition to articles carried in the hand. The 
charges for overweight are moderate. 

No personal baggage is checked unless its owner pres- 
ents his passenger ticket. The heavier luggage should 
invariably be booked and a receipt obtained for it. The 
more simple and expeditious system of brass checks 
prevailing on our railways is not yet adopted in Europe. 
The traveller having checked his trunks, need be un- 
der no apprehension as to their prompt or safe arrival 
at their final destination, at which they are taken care 
of by a porter until its counter-receipt or ticket is pre- 
sented, upon which it is delivered subject to a small 
gratuity for storage. 

Diligence : Eilwagen (Malle-poste ) in Austria, 



20 America Abroad. 

Deligenze in Italy, are still largely in vogue in lower 
Austria, Switzerland and Italy. They are ordinarily 
arranged for three passengers only, seating one pas- 
senger in the coupe and two in the interieur The 
coupe commands a tolerably good prospect of the 
country traversed, and should therefore be secured as 
soon as possible, especially in parts much frequented,, 
where it is advisable to engage it several days in ad- 
vance. The guards are generally well informed and 
civil, being mostly retired non-commissioned officers. 
As a rule, only small articles, such as satchels, hand- 
trunks, etc., not exceeding fifty pounds in weight, are 
admitted in the diligence ; articles of heavier weight 
or larger bulk should be sent by express or Giiter- 
wagen in Austria and Germany. All luggage should 
be booked at least two hours before the time announced 
for departure to assure its prompt transportation. 

" Extra Post : " For crossing remote mountain 
passes and visiting districts not traversed by the ordina- 
ry diligence, carriages may be obtained at inns for four 
persons including their luggage, if of moderate size, at 
$1.50 to $2.00 per ten miles. These charges however 
differ materially in the various provinces and districts. 
Those, fortunate enough to secure a returning carriage 



America Abroad. 



21 



{rittorni in Italy), are generally accommodated at a 
lower rate. For parties of four this mode of convey- 
ance is less expensive and more agreeable than travel- 
ling by diligence. 

Omnibus or Stage : Termed Stellwagen in Aus- 
tria, run on the principal highways in Switzerland, 
Germany and Austria. The fare is about 25 cents 
per station (generally eight to ten miles), which they 
accomplish in about two hours. As a means of be- 
coming more intimately acquainted with the people of 
the country they are preferable to any other mode of 
travelling by vehicle, without considering their pecun- 
iary advantage. Their halting places are generally at 
second or third rate taverns or inns, which, of course, 
cannot be recommended for their daintiness or choice 
of edibles. The traveller is therefore counselled to 
postpone the principal meal, until he arrives at a larger 
station. The cabriolet in the forepart of the vehi- 
cle is the most comfortable part of the Stelhvagen 
and can be secured for three persons. The seats should 
be occupied as soon as possible to avoid unnecessary 
dispute, etc. 

Carriages, Cabs, etc.: Carriages ( Vetturini, Nolo- 
sinieri in Italy, Voiture in France, and Droschke in Ger- 



22 America Abroad. 

many), with one and two horses, may be hired in the 
cities of the Continent at from twenty to thirty cents 
per hour, and are recommended to travellers desiring 
to gain a general idea of the extent of the cities visited 
and their suburbs before beginning a detailed inspec- 
tion of the various attractions. 

2. MAPS. — The traveller, especially the pedestrian, 
should provide himself with a general map of Europe 
and such special maps containing foot-paths, etc., as he 
may require for his particular route, and which are 
procurable in the principal cities of such districts as 
he wishes to explore or at the R. R. book-stands. 

3. HOTELS, GRATUITIES.— Little variation occurs 
in the accommodation and charges of first-class hotels 
in the principal towns and watering places throughout 
Europe, but it frequently happens in Austria, Ger- 
many, Belgium, etc., that in old-fashioned hotels of 
unassuming exterior the traveller finds as much real 
comfort as in the more modern establishments, while 
the charges are more moderate. The best houses of 
both descriptions will therefore be enumerated in our 
lists. 



America Abroad. 23 

The average charges in the first-class hotels are as 
follows: Bed, 70 cents to $1.00; plain breakfast, 25 
cents ; dinner {table d'hote), 75 cents ; table wine, 25 
cents ; tea with steak, 50 to 75 cents : attendance 
(garfon), 25 cents; light (bougie), 25 cents; boots 
(porter) extra. This is the most prevalent or European 
plan ; in the larger cities of all the continental coun- 
tries may also be found hotels on the American plan. 

When the traveller remains for a week or more at a 
hotel, it is advisable to pay, or at least call for, his 
account every two or three days, in order that errone- 
ous insertions may be at once detected. Verbal 
reckonings should not be accepted. A waiter's arith- 
metic is faulty, and his mistakes are seldom in favor of 
the traveller. A habit too often prevails of present- 
ing the bill at the last moment, when errors or wilful 
impositions must be submitted to for want of time to 
investigate them. Those who propose starting early 
in the morning will do well to ask for their bills on 
the previous evening. 

A peculiarity of many of the inns in Austria and 
South Germany is that they have a Gastzimmer for 
the humbler classes on the ground-floor, while the 
salle a manger, for more distinguished visitors, is on 



24 America Abroad. 

the first floor. The viands and liquors supplied in 
these different apartments are generally the same, 
while the charges differ considerably. Pedestrians and 
travellers of moderate requirements will find the country 
inns of South Germany and the German-speaking parts 
of Tyrol very reasonable, 5 marks = 3 florins ($1.25) a 
day being generally sufficient to include every item. 
In Italy, France, etc., the charges are higher by about 
50 per cent., and larger gratuities are expected by the 
attendants. Tourists intending to explore very remote 
districts will find it advisable to take a supply of tea, 
coffee, or chocolate with them. Where there are no 
inns, accommodations may generally be obtained at 
the pastors, in Germany, or priests in southern countries 
on very reasonable terms. 

The post inns are generally good. Those patronized 
by the Stellwagen are inferior, although sometimes 
convenient for persons travelling by these vehicles, es- 
pecially when encumbered with luggage. 

American travellers often impose considerable extra 
trouble by calling for things almost unknown in the 
respective countries in which they happen to find 
themselves, and if in such cases ignorance of the lan- 
guage be combined with unacquaintance with the cus- 



America Abroad. 



25 



torus, misunderstandings and disputes too often ensue. 
We therefore recommend once more to our country- 
men to acquire, if possible, such a moderate profici- 
ency in the language as to render them intelligible to 
the servants, and, as a rule, to conform in their 
requirements to the habits and resources of the natives. 
Above all, we advise Americans abroad, at all times 
and in all circumstances, to " keep cool," even when 
the abruptness of a railroad official or the stern com- 
mand of Ruhe ! by a Prussian night-watchman, would 
apparently warrant the display of a little native 
" cantankerousness." 



^555^ 



W® 




VIEW IN LOWER PART OF BROADWAY, NEW YORK CITY. 



America Abroad. 27 



CHAPTER IV. 

Having given the tourist some general information 
applicable to travelling and especially pertaining to 
the preliminaries of a tour, we will, in the next chapter, 
enter into detailed descriptions of the respective 
countries, and for the information of those unacquaint- 
ed with the city, and who wish to undertake a hurried 
inspection of the same, we will endeavor to briefly 
point out and describe those attractions of most in- 
terest to the tourist bound for Europe. 

/. NEW YORK CITY.— The first authentic record of 
an exploration of what is now known as New York is 
that of Jean Verrazani, a Florentine navigator, who 
entered the Bay of New York as early as 1525. His 
search, however, was interrupted, and did not result in 
any permanent settlement. 

In 1609, Henrick Hudson, in a vessel called " The 
Half Moon," navigated the bay and part of the river, 
being the first European who settled on Manhattan 
Island. He returned to Holland some years later, and 
gave such glowing accounts of his discovery that his visit 



28 America Abroad. 

* 
was imitated by Dutch traders in 1624 who established 
a settlement. Two years later, under Pieter Minnet, 
Fort Amsterdam was erected, and the entire " Man- 
hata " Island was purchased of the Indians for about 

S25. 

In 1664, the English gained control of the island, 
and changed the name from New Amsterdam to New 
York. The occupation of the English was interrupted 
in 1673, when it was retaken by the Dutch, whose 
occupancy, however, was of brief duration. Thence- 
forth it became a flourishing settlement, so much so, 
that at the outbreak of the Revolution, in which it took 
an active. part, the city contained 23,000 inhabitants. 
From 1783 to 1790 New York w r as the seat of Govern- 
ment of the United States, President Washington's 
inauguration taking place in the old City Hall, then 
located at the present site of the Sub-Treasury, corner 
. Nassau and Wall Streets. The present City of New 
York is located at the mouth of the Hudson River in 
the southern part of the State. It covers the whole of 
Manhattan Island and a portion of the mainland, and 
is bounded on the south by New York Bay, on the 
west by the Hudson or North River, on the east by 
the River Bronx that separates it from Westchester 



America Abroad. 29 

County, and the East River, a narrow, saltwater strait, 
dividing it from Long Island. It also includes Ran- 
dall's, Ward's and Blackwell's Islands, in the East 
River, and Governor's Island (occupied by the U. S. 
Government),- Bedloe's and Ellis's Islands in the Bay. 
The city is sixteen miles long, and varies in width 
from a few hundred yards to 4^ miles at the north 
part. 

Its harbor affords ample and safe anchorage for the 
largest fleets, and opens directly upon the Atlantic, 
making it the most convenient and* favored port for 
departure to Europe and other countries. 

From the sea New York City is approached from the 
south, past Sandy Hook, through the Narrows, between 
Long Island on the east and Staten Island on the west 
into New York Bay. By rail it is approached by the 
N. Y. Central and Hudson R. R. R., the Erie R. R. 
and the Pennsylvania Central R. R. 

Hotels. — First-Class : St. Nicholas, Metropolitan, 
Fifth Avenue, Hoffman House, Belvedere House, at 
corner of Fourth Avenue and 18th Street. 

Of moderate pretentions. — European Plan : Hart- 
mann's Hotel, 45 and 47 Bowery, Shoenfeld's, Battery 



30 America Abroad. 

Place. — American plan : Rueckerts, corner Bowery 
and Canal Street. 

SIGHTS. — i. Castle Garden, Broadway. 2. Stock 
Exchange, Broad St. 3. Trinity Church. 4. City Hall, 
5. East River Bridge. 6. Tombs, 7. Cooper Institute. 
8. Masonic Temple. 9. Academy of Design. 10. Grand 
Central Depot. 11. Columbia College. 12. Central 
Park, Museum, Arsenal, etc. 

The Post Office stands in the triangular and the old 
City Hall Park, between Broadway and Park Row, and 
is not only a substantial and elegant structure of Doric 
and Renaissance architecture, but is the largest build- 
ing in the city. The New Court-House, close by, was 
begun in 1866 ; though of beautiful design it is still 
unfinished. It is occupied in part by various courts 
and municipal offices. 

The " Staats Zeitung " Building, opposite the north 
end of City Hall Park, at the junction of Chatham 
and Centre Streets, is a handsome granite building in 
the Renaissance style, with beautiful bronze statues 
of Franklin and Guttenberg above its portal. Its 
imposing height renders it conspicuous from all 
points of the city. It is with justice regarded as a 



America Abroad. 31 

worthy memorial of German-American enterprise and 
industry. 

Theatres. — Haverleys, West 14th Street near Sixth 
Ave. Daly's, Broadway and 30th Street. Madison 
Square Theatre, 25th Street, near 5th Avenue. Stand- 
ard, Sixth Ave. and Broadway, near W. 33d St. 
Niblds Garden, Broadway and Prince Street. Germa- 
nia, corner 13th Street and Broadway (devoted to 
German plays.) Thalia, Bowery, near Canal Street 
(also devoted to the German drama.) Grand Opera 
House, 8th Ave. and 23th Street. Tony Pastor s, 14th 
Street, near 3d Ave. Theatre Comique, 514 Broad- 
way. San Francisco Minstrels, Broadway, near 28th 
Street. 





SUB-TREASURY, NEW YORK7~CITY. 



America Abroad. ^ 

2. STEAMERS TO THE CONTINENT OF EU- 
ROPE. — The North German Lloyd Steamship Line, 
running to Bremen, and stopping at Southampton 
and Havre, is a very popular mode of communication 
direct to the continent. The vessels are large, and 
ably commanded, and the pleasure-tourist who maybe 
either going to Germany direct, or who desires to 
spend a few days at London and vicinity, or in Ireland 
and Scotland, will do well to take passage by this line 
instead of going roundabout to other English ports. 
Their agents in Southampton are Messrs. Keller, Wallis 
& Postlethwaite, and in Paris, L'Herbette, Kane & Co., 
33 Rue du Quatre Septembre. 

The Hamburg American Packet Co., one of the most 
successful lines which crosses the Atlantic, plies be- 
tween Hamburg and New York, stopping on its out- 
ward passage at Cherbourg and Plymouth, and on its 
home trips at Plymouth and Havre. Agents in Ply- 
mouth and Southampton : Smith, Sundius & Co. ; 
Havre : A. Brostrom & Co. 

Both the above lines run extra steamers during the 
travelling season to accommodate their patrons. 

The Rotterdam Line. A very convenient line for 
tourists for South-Germany, the Rhine, etc., is the Rot- 



34 America Abroad. 

terdam line. They are excellent steamers and have 
the advantage of not crossing that bugbear, the Chan- 
nel. They are splendidly manned and equipped, and 
are models of marine architecture. Agents in Rotter- 
dam : Netherland American Steam Navigation Co. 

Red Star Line. The steamers of this line sail 
weekly between Antwerp and New York. This line, 
by reason of its cheaper fares and of the favorable 
situation of Antwerp to Switzerland, Italy, etc., offers 
great inducements. Agents in Antwerp : B. von der 
Becke. 

Recently the Italian Line of steamers has sprung up 
for travellers direct to Italy and Spain. Though a 
young enterprise it is liberally patronized and promises 
to be successful. 

Among the companies whose steamers sail to Eng- 
land, may be mentioned the Cunard, Anchor, Guion, 
Inman, National and State Line ; and to France, the 
Bordeaux Line, and the Compagnie Generale Trans- 
atlantique. 



Ainerica Abroad. 35 



3. THE PASSAGE.— Having selected your steamer, 
the question will naturally suggest itself : " What shall 
I wear?" 

The male traveller contemplating a land trip in ad- 
dition to the voyage by sea will require at least two 
changes of clothing — a gray or dark suit of serge or 
other equally durable and impervious material, an 
overcoat for the steamer, and some lighter goods for 
the journey inland ; for ladies we would recommend, 
as absolutely essential, three dresses : a steamer 
dress, for which we would choose gray camel's 
hair-cloth, or any fabric equally soft, thick and 
warm ; a pretty travelling dress to wear after you 
leave the steamer for your railway journeying, and a 
black silk. While on board the steamer, wear only 
flannel undercloths and colored skirts and hose, for 
white skirts soil very easily on the decks, which are 
often wet and sooty. 

Provide yourself with an extension chair before 
sailing. As for the amount of baggage, the less you 
take the better. If you take with you an infant, buy a 
deep clothes-basket and make a bed in it for the child 



36 America Abroad. 

to sleep in ; set it on the floor of the state-room and 
secure it tightly. Endeavor to procure a nurse who 
will not become sea-sick. A state-room amidship, near 
the centre of the vessel and outside, with a port-hole, is 
most desirable, and as the number of these is necessa- 
rily limited the passenger should book as early as pos- 
sible. 

As for what to do to avoid sea-sickness, there are so 
many prescriptions warranted infallible, and known to 
be, in some cases, that we can only give a few, remark- 
ing that often the results are alike by entirely opposite 
methods. Some of the advice given is " lie down in your 
berth ; keep constantly on deck and in the centre of the 
vessel ; eat hearty but no fatty substances," etc., etc. 
The fact is that each instance of sea-sickness depends 
upon the individual itself. The author has witnessed 
persons apparently in the most robust of health 
overpowered very readily by sea-sickness, while 
feeble, timid persons, who were continually dreading 
sea-sickness before starting, were, during the passage, in 
the happy position of attending as good Samaritans on 
their otherwise more robust co-passengers. 

It is a common opinion prevailing among the inex- 
perienced, that frequent application of stimulants to 



America Abroad. 37 

the " inner man " dispels sea-sickness. This is errone- 
ous as after stimulation the reaction and consequent 
greater susceptibility to sea-sickness invariably sets in. 

We would advise the passenger to change his gene- 
ral habits as little as possible. To remove the dis- 
agreeable taste when sea-sick, lemons often prove very 
serviceable, as they neutralize the acid taste arising 
from the stomach. Avoid as much as feasible coming 
near the machinery of the vessel, as the smell of the oil 
and steam often nauseates. As a general rule avoid all 
nauseating sights, smells, etc. 

You will find much to amuse and interest you on a 
transatlantic steamer : to note the vessel's progress, 
recorded every day at noon, on the bulletin or " log," in 
the state-room landing ; then there are some simple yet 
entertaining games, as shuffle-board, quoits, etc., in 
which the ladies indulge as heartily as the sterner sex. 
Some of the most lasting ties of friendship! are made 
amid-ocean If you chance to be a student of human 
nature, you can study silently the traits of character 
of your fellow passengers, nowhere else so fully exhi- 
bited. Most of the continental steamers also furnish 
their cabin passengers with musical entertainment 
twice or oftener a day, and although the musicians are 



38 America Abroad. 

mostly non professionals, still their performances some- 
times tend wonderfully to animate the company and 
in some cases even to partly dispel a vague sensation of 
"blues" or sea-sickness. The author has witnessed 
an inveterate misanthrope turn as lively as a squirrel 
on hearing a few strains of a familiar Alpine melody 
on an ocean steamer. 

Occasionally you will meet another vessel, similar to 
your own, and witness the ingenious telegraphy by flags ; 
you will learn to tell the time by "bells " instead of 
hours, for the steamer's time-piece is a chronometer 
and a bell. Or, leaning over the side of the vessel in 
the dark hours, you can — no, not sacrifice your last 
meal to Neptune, — but watch, interested, for hours the 
glittering wake of the steamer, alive with myriads of 
phosphorescent sparks, and, when tired, silently steal 
to your berth there to be lulled into a refreshing sleep 
by a chorus of sonorous snoring on the part of your 
more somnolent co-passengers, undisturbed by the 
serenades of those " infernal cats " in somebody's 
backyard, as sadly experienced on terra firma. 



America Abroad. 39 



CHAPTER V. 

'Tis liberty crowns Britannia's Isle 
And makes her barren rocks and her bleak mountains smile. 

Addison. 

GREAT BRITAIN. 

The history of England is already too familiar to the 
enlightened mind to render it necessary to enter into it 
at length ; but as it is our intention to preface each 
country with some brief remarks regarding its history, 
political economy, etc., the rule will be followed here 
also. 

The present mixed population of the British Isles 
has been the result of their intercourse with the differ- 
ent nations, who had successively become their conquer- 
ors. The Romans, who landed at Deal, under Julius 
Caesar, in the year 55, B. C, were succeeded by the 
Saxons, afterward by the Danes, under Canute, and 
still later by the Normans, under William the Conquer- 
or, in 1066. The original Celts mostly inhabit the High- 
lands of Scotland, Wales and a greater portion of 
Ireland ; the Anglo-Saxon race, of Germanic descent, 



40 America Abroad. 

between whom and the former the leading distinction 
now exists, inhabit the Lowlands of Scotland and the 
whole of England. The island first became familiar 
to the Romans by the Gaelic name of Albin, by v/hich 
only it is known among the Gaels of Scotland at 
present. 

The population of Great Britain and Ireland was 
estimated in 187 1, at 33,450,237. Its manufactures 
and commerce are unequaled by any country in the 
world. The form of government is a limited monar- 
chy — the succession to the throne hereditary. The 
legislative power is shared by the House of Lords and 
Commons. The House of Lords consists of peers, 
whose titles and seats are hereditary, also bishops and 
archbishops, and Scottish peers elected for the dura- 
tion of the Parliament. 

The climate of Great Britain and Ireland is more 
uniform and milder than that experienced on the Con- 
tinent in the same degrees of latitude, resulting from 
the equalizing influences of the surrounding seas, the 
western side of both islands being invariably warm. 

/. LONDON. — The metropolis of the United Kingdom 
of Great Britain and the most wealthy city of the 



America Abroad. 41 

world. Its population is nearly 4,000,000, in the me- 
tropolitan area. The population in 1851, numbered 
2,362,000 — an increase of over a million and a half in 
twenty years. The present increase is 44,000 per an- 
num, or a birth every twelve minutes. The city cov- 
ers an extent of one hundred and forty square miles, 
or fourteen miles long and ten broad. Three hundred 
and sixty thousand houses are occupied by the popu- 
lation, and the cost of food is computed to be $800,000 
per day. Although the climate of London is by no 
means pleasant, its sanitary advantages over most 
other capitals are remarkable. 

The British metropolis lies principally on the north 
bank of the Thames, in the County of Middlesex. A 
large portion however, is situated within the County 
of Surrey, on the south bank of the Thames, and forty- 
five miles above the river's mouth. The portion of 
this vast metropolis which bears the name of the 
"City," is situated on the north bank of the Thames, 
between the Tower and Temple Bar, and was formerly 
surrounded by walls. The other divisions are, West- 
minster, Marylebone, Finsbury, Lambeth, Tower Ham- 
lets, Chelsea and Southwark. In addition to the par- 
liamentary divisions, London has numerous social 



42 America Abroad. 

divisions, the centre of which is Temple Bar. The 
commercial centre is the Exchange. Two of the West 
End districts have lately been known as Belgravia and 
Tyburnia. The first occupies the southern wing of the 
West End, where reside, in conjunction with that of 
London, which radiates from Hyde Park corner, the 
crime de la crime of the English aristocracy; here are 
the principal club-houses and the most elegant squares. 
Belgravia is a creation of the last fifty years. Ty- 
burnia lies to the north of the West End. The houses 
are large and singular, the streets wide and clean, but 
the monotony of its appearance is rather oppressing. 
Its inhabitants are mostly city merchants and profes- 
sional men, who live very close to the charmed ring of 
fashion, expecting probably at some time to take the 
leap across. 

London is of great antiquity. The Romans sur- 
rounded it with walls; but nothing is known of it pre 
vious to that time. In the time of Nero, it bore the 
dignity of a Roman colony. During the last eight 
hundred years it has suffered much from fire and pes- 
tilence. Its public regulations are admirable. 

Hotels. — First-class : Grand Midland, Langham, 
Bristol, Queen, Westminster Palace, 



America Abroad. 43 

Less pretentious : Perry's (Regent Street), Hotel de 
l'Europe (Haymarket). 

Sights. — 1. Antiquarian Society (by letter to the 
Secretary). 2. Bank of England (from 10 to 3, order of 
Director). 3. British Museum, Great Russell Street 
(Mon., Wed., Frid., from 10 to 4). 4. Buckingham Pal- 
ace. 5. Crystal Palace, Sydenham (daily, from Victoria 
Station). 6. Houses of Parliament (Saturday, between 
10 and 4, by ticket, on application at Lord Great 
Chamberlain's office, near Victoria Tower). 7. Hyde 
Park and Rotten Row (from 12 to 2, and 5 to 7, dur- 
ing season, May, June and July). 8. Kensington Gar- 
dens (band plays Tuesdays and Fridays, 5:30 to 6:30, 
May and June). 9. Kensington Museum (daily). 10. 
Royal Academy, Burlington House (8 to 7, May, June 
and July, one shilling). 11. Somerset House (10 to 4, 
free). 12. St. Paul's Cathedral (daily, Sundays excepted, 
area free, vaults, gallery, etc., 3 shillings 2 pence). 13. 
Tower of London (daily, Sundays excepted, 10 to 4, 
one shilling). 14. Westminster Abbey (9 to 6 in sum- 
mer, and 11 to 2:30 in winter, free — choir and chapel 
six pence). 15. Westminster Hall (close to Abbey). 16. 
Windsor Castle (free, order at Lord Chamberlain's of- 
fice, at 1 p. m.). 17. Woolwich Arsenal (apply to 



44 America Abroad. 

American Legation). 18. Zoological Gardens, Regent's 
Park (Mondays, six pence ; other days, one shilling). 

Theatres. — Covent Garden Theatre (Italian op- 
era), Drury Lane Theatre, Haymarket Theatre, Opera 
Comique. The Gayety (on the Strand), Globe Thea- 
tre (on the Strand), Adelphi Theatre (drama and 
farce, on the Strand), Princess' Theatre (73 Oxford 
street). The Lyceum (on the Strand), St. James', 
Prince of Wales', Saddler's Wells. 




46 America Abroad. 

CHAPTER VI. 

IRELAND AND SCOTLAND. 

We would most decidedly recommend travellers 
who intend visiting Ireland and Scotland, to take 
the trip by rail, thus passing through the picturesque 
scenery of Wales. Take train at London via Holy- 
head to Queenstown, visit the celebrated Lakes of 
Killarney (Hotels: Royal Victoria and Railway Hotel), 
and go north through Dublin, Belfast, and Coleraine; 
cross the North Channel to Glasgow, and visit the 
principal cities in Scotland. The trip is one the 
tourist will never regret, and a hasty tour can be 
made in ten days. 



America Abroad. 47 



CHAPTER VII. 

Land des Rechtes, Land des Lichtes 
Land des Schwertes und Gedichtes, 
Land der Freien 
Und Getreuen. 
Moritz, Graf v. Strachvvitz. 

GERMANY. 

Situated in the central part of Europe, Germany 
comprises in a wide sense the extensive territory 
of the German element and German language, which 
extends between the Slavonic East and Romanic 
West, from the Alps to the North and Baltic Sea; in its 
more limited (politic) sense however, embracing only the 
greater part of this territory. In this sense it comprises, 
according to the treaties between the North German 
Bund and South-Germany of September, 1870, the four 
kingdoms of Prussia, Bavaria, Saxony and Wiirtemberg; 
six archduchies, Baden, Hessia, Mecklenburg-Schwer- 
in, Saxe-Weimar, Mecklenburg-Strelitz and Olden- 
burg ; five duchies, Brunswick, Saxe-Meiningen, Saxe- 
Altenburg, Saxe-Koburg-Gotha and Anhalt ; seven 
principalities {Filrstenthumer), Schwarzburg-Rudol- 
stadt and Schwarzburg-Sondershausen,Waldeck, Reuss, 



48 America Abroad. 

younger and elder branch, Lippe, Schaumburg-Lippe; 
three free cities, Hamburg, Bremen and Liibeck* and 
Alsatia and Lorraine, together, twenty-six States, with 
about 45,000,000 inhabitants. Its industry and com- 
merce have increased enormously of late. Since Jan- 
uary 1, 187 1, it is a constitutional monarchy, of which 
the Emperor is the Chief Executive. The legislative 
and executive power is exercised by the Bundesrath 
(fifty-eight members), and the Reichstag (one deputy 
to each 100,000 inhabitants). The chief responsible 
official is the Chancellor Bismarck. 

/. BERLIN . — The capital of Prussia, residence of the 
Emperor of Germany, and seat of the Imperial Gov- 
ernment, as well as of the highest Prussian authorities, 
contains about 950,000 inhabitants, and a garrison of 
21,000 soldiers. The city is situated in an extensive 
sandy plain about, half-way between the extreme south- 
west and north-east extremities of the empire. 

The town consists of ten different quarters and six 
suburbs, which have sprung up at different periods. 
The oldest quarters are Alt Berlin with the Rathhaus, 



* Though these will soon be joined in the Zollverein and thus 
lose'part of their autonomy enjoyed for centuries, 



America Abroad. 49 

on the right bank of the Spree, bounded by the Konigs- 
graben and Koln with the royal palace on an island 
in the river. Adjoining these, on the west, are the 
Friederichswerder, with the Arsenal on the left bank of 
the Spree, surrounded by the fosse of the old fortifica- 
tions ; the Dorotheenstadt or Neustadt with the Lin- 
den to the north-west of the Friederichswerder extend- 
ing north as far as the river, the Friederichstadt to the 
south of the Neustadt, and with the Wilhelms Platz 
and the Schiller Platz ; then from west to east, along 
the right bank of the Spree, the Friederich-Wilhelm- 
stadt, the Spandau Quartier, the Konigstadt and the 
Stralau quarter ; and finally the Louisenstadt on the 
left bank, to the south-east of the Friederichswerder. 
The six suburbs are now increasing rapidly in extent, 
especially in the neighborhood of the railway station. 
The old town wall, which formerly enclosed these ten 
quarters, was about nine miles in circumference. The 
boundaries of the city having been extended in 1861, 
it now covers an area of twenty-three square miles, of 
which, however, about one-third only is occupied by 
buildings. The town contains about 480 streets, 58 
squares, 700 public buildings (including 60 churches) 
and 15,000 private houses. The commerce and manu- 



5o America Abroad. 

factures of Berlin have increased so rapidly of late 
that it now ranks among the most mercantile 
places in continental Europe. The staple commodi- 
ties are grain, spirits and wool ; the principal branches 
of industry are engine building, iron casting and the 
manufacture of woolen and silk goods and fancy 
articles. 

Hotels. — First-class : Hotel Royal (Linden), Me- 
tropole, Kaiserhof. 

Less pretentious : Schmelzer (Jager Str. 13); Nord- 
deutscherHof. (Mohren Str. 20). Hotels Garnis: Schlos- 
ser's (Jager Str. 17); Kohler (Mohren Str. 37.) 

Sights. — 1. Aquarium (daily, from 9 a. m., i mark.) 
2. Arsenal (2 to 4). 3. Exchange or Borse. 4. Botanical 
Garden (daily, holidays excepted, 8 to 12 and 2 to 7). 
5. Chambers of Deputies (cards of admission are issued 
the evening previous). 6. Royal Mint (Tuesdays and 
Fridays,on application). 7. Museum. 8. Zoological Gar- 
den. 9. Royal Palace. 10. Palace of the Emperor. 11. 
Palace of the Crown Prince. 12. National Gallery, opp. 
Schloss. 13. Rathhaus. 14. Synagogue. 15. Potsdam 
(half an hour from Berlin, with Sans Souci). 1. Char- 
lottenburg (Flora). 



America Abroad. 5 1 

Theatres.— Royal Opera House {Linden) ; Royal 
Theatre, Schauspielhaus {Linden); Friederich 
Wilhelmstadt Theatre (comic operas, comedies, etc.); 
Wallner's; Victoria (Miinz Str. 20) ; Kroll's Theatre 
(Thiergarten) ; Waltersdorf Theatre (Chaussee Str. 27) ; 
Vorstadtisches Theatre; National Theatre; Theatre 
Varietes (outside the Halle gate). 

ROUTES TO AND FROM BERLIN.— From Cologne 
to Hanover, and to Berlin by Stendal or Magdeburg 
(convenient for passengers embarking at Antwerp and 
Rotterdam); 1. Railway to Hanover in 5 to 7 hours ; 
fares : 1st class, 34 marks ; 2d class, 28 marks ; 3d class, 
20 marks. To Berlin by Stendal, in n# to 15 hours ; 
fares : 45 marks, 33 marks, 23 marks, respectively ; by 
Magdeburg in 12 to 20 hours (same fare), no change by 
express train. Berlin to Cologne by Magdeburg 
Kreiensen ; railway to Magdeburg in 2^ to 3^ hours 
(Express train 15 marks, 10 marks and 7.50 marks). 
To Cologne in 11 to 21^ hours ; fares, 60 marks, 42 
' marks, 31 marks. Cologne is the usual starting point 
for stations along the Rhine. 

2. COLOGNE {Kbln.)— -The most important city on 
the Rhine, both in size and commerce. It is superbly 



52 America Abroad. 

fortified and contains a population of 140,000, of which 
nine-tenths are Catholics. Its garrison numbers 7,000. 
It is situated, in the shape of a crescent, on the left 
bank of the Rhine, with the opposite bank of which it 
is connected by a pontoon and a suspension bridge. 
In consequence of its many majestic steeples, the city 
offers an imposing view to the approaching traveller. 
The old streets and alleys, though narrow and unin- 
viting, contain many interesting edifices, some of which 
were built as far back as the 13th century. The more 
modern streets are graced by stately buildings, mostly 
in the Renaissance style. 

Hotels. — First-class: Hotel du Nord, Hotel Disch, 
Mainzer Hof, Victoria Hotel. 

Less pretentious : Europaischer Hof, Hotel Billstein, 
Hotel Weber. 

Sights. — 1. Cathedral. 2. Museum of the Arch- 
bishop. 3. Suspension Bridge. 4. Wallraff-Richartz 
Museum. 5. Church of the Minorites. 6. Hochstrasse. 
7. Rathhaus. 8. Great St. Martin Church. 9. Giirzenich 
(near Rathhaus). 10. St. George's, St. Peter's, St. Sev- 
erin, St. Cacelie, Church of the Apostles, St. Gereon, 



America Abroad. 



53 



Jesuit Church. n. Fortifications. 12. Zoological 
Garden. 

Theatres. — Stadt Theatre (Glockengasse) ; Thalia 
(Schildergasse); Kolner (Summer, near the Flora). 





VIEW ON THE RHINE. 



America Abroaa. 55 



Der deutsche Rhein — ! wie klingt das Wort so maechtig 
Schon sehn wir ihn, den goldig gruenen Strom. 
Mit heitern Staedten, Burgen, stolz und praechtig, 
Die Lurlei dort und dort den Koelner Dom! 
Der freihe Rhein! — Gedaechtniss unsrer Siege, 
Du mit dem Blut der Edelsten getauft 
Ruhm unsrer Vaeter, die im heil' gen Kriege 
Mit Liedern nicht, mit Schwertern dich erkauft ! 

Robert Eduard Prutz. 



3. THE RHINE. — As with the majority of districts north 
of the Alps, the most favorable seasons for a Rhine trip 
are, summer and autumn ; although for excursions in the 
neighboring forests, such as the Taunus, etc., April and 
May also offer many attractions on account of the then 
prevailing freshness of the landscape. For tourists, 
however, accustomed to associate the legends of the 
Rhine with the exquisite green of its vineyards — 
autumn alone presents attractions par excellence. 

Of course, it is not within the province of a guide- 
book, to enter into details respecting the literature, 
etc., of any particular country. We give the following 
classic account of the legend of the Mausethurm (by 
Bingen on the Rhine), more for the sake of its quaint 
manner of narration than its descriptive value. Sebas- 
tian Miinster (1550) speaking of the Rhine, alludes to 



56 Ai?ierica Abroad. 

the Mausethurm thus: " Er hat den Nammen von ein- 
" er solchen Geschichte uberkommen. Es war ein 
" Bischoff zu Mentz zu den zeiten des grossen Kaysers 
"Otto, nemlich anno Christi 914, der hiesz Hatto, un- 
" der dem enstund eine grosse Thewrung, und da er 
"sahe dasz die Armen Leut grossen Hunger litten, 
'' versammelt er in ein Schewr viel armer Leut, und liesz 
" sie darin verbrennen: Dann er sprach: es ist eben mit 
"jnen als mit den Meusen die das Korn fressen unnd 
"niergend zu nutz sind. Aber Gott liesz es nicht 
"ungerochen. Er gebote den Meusen dass sie mit 
"hauffen uber jhn liffen, jm Tag und Nacht keine 
" ruhe lieszen, wollten ihn also lebendig freszen. Da 
" flohe er in diesen Thurm, und verhofft er wiird da 
" sicher seyn vor den Meusen. Aber er mocht dem 
" Urtheil Gottes nicht entriinnen, sonder die Meuss 
" schwummen durch den Rhein zu jm. Da er das sahe, 
"erkannt er das Urtheil Gottes und starb also under 
" den Meusen. Wilt dues fiir ein Fabel haben, will ich 
"nicht mit dir darum zancken, ich hab disz Gesch- 
" icht mer dann in einem Buch gefunden." 

Rhineboats. — (The first arrived in 181 7, at high- 
water from London to Coblenz. The regular service 
above Cologne, however, began in 1827.) Of the boats 



America Abroad. 57 

of the Koln Diisseldorfer Co., the best are the four new- 
est, built after American models : Deutscher Kaiser, 
Wilhelm, Kaiser und Konig, Friede and Hum- 
boldt. The duration of the trip from Bonn or Col- 
ogne to Mainz is from 10 to 11 hours, fare 7 to 9 
marks; 100 pounds baggage free. Passengers purchasing 
tickets over 2 marks, have the privilege of interrupt- 
ing their trip after previous announcement to con- 
ductor or clerk. Dinner 2 m. 50 ph.; the wine is 
excellent and comparatively reasonable. 

Some of the Rhine wines noted for particular excel- 
lence are, .first: Those produced at the Johannisberg 
and Steinberg; also Rudesheimer-Berg, Riidesheimer 
Hinterhaus, Marcobrunn, Rauenthal-Berg and Hoch- 
heim. Assmannshaus is celebrated for its exquisite red 
wines. Rhenish Bavaria (Wonnegau), Rhenish Hessia 
(Scharlachberger), the river Nahe, a tributary of the 
Rhine (Kauzenberg), the Valley of the Rhine (Enge- 
holl, Oberwesel), and the river Mosel, also offer supe- 
rior wines, though somewhat inferior to those of 
Riidesheim and vicinity. 

ROUTES TO AND FROM BERLIN, continued.— From 

Bremen to Berlin, via Hanover, take railway at Bremen. 



58 America Abroad. 

Time to Hanover, 3 to $}4 hours; 9 m., 7.50 m., 4.60 
m. respectively. From Hanover to Berlin, 5 to 6 hours; 
fares : 26 m., 18 m. and 13 m. (by way of Stendal). 

4. BREMEN. — Second in importance of the three in- 
dependent Hanseatic cities, and, next to Hamburg, the 
most important commercial city in northern Germany, 
has a population of about 100,000. Bremen is situated 
on a sandy level on both banks of the Weser, 65 miles 
from its influx into the North Sea. It is divided 
into the Altstadt and Neustadt. The Altstadt, on the 
right bank, formerly enclosed by ramparts, is now sur- 
rounded by the suburbs, or Vorstadte. The mediaeval 
importance of the place is still indicated by the well- 
preserved, quaint-looking edifices occasionally encoun- 
tered in its streets, while its present prosperity is 
fully attested by its numerous handsome residences of 
modern architecture. Bremen owes its importance to 
a great extent to its seaport, Bremerhaven, which is 
annually entered by over 3,500 vessels. 

Hotels. — First-class: Hillmann's, Hotel de l'Eu- 
rope, Stadt Frankfurt, Siedenburg (all within 10 or 15 
minutes' walk from railroad depot). 



America Abroad. 59 

Less pretentious : Belle vue, Casper (both in the Bahn- 
hof Street.) 

Sights. — 1. Promenades. 2. Rathhaus and Raths- 
keller (built 1410), 3. Roland Denkmal. 4. Exchange. 
5. Schiitting, or Chamber of Commerce. 6. Cathedral 
in the Romanesque style, begun in the nth century 
(ask to be shown the Bleikeller). 7. Gustave Adolph 
Statue. 8. Ausgarii Church, erected in 1229 to 1243 
(contains altar-piece by Tischbein). 9. Bridges. 10. 
Biirgerpark. 

Theatres. — Stadt Theatre, Saltzmann's Garden and 
Tivoli (in summer). 

ROUTES TO AND FROM BERLIN— continued.— 

From Hamburg to Berlin via Hanover. Railway to 
Hanover, in 4^2 to 5 hours, fares 12.75 m., 9.60 m., 
6.45 m., respectively; railway to Berlin from Ham- 
burg, 5 to 6 hours. 

5. HAMBURG. — With 300,000 inhabitants, and next 
to London, Liverpool and Glasgow, the most important 
commercial place in Europe. It is the largest of the 
free Hanseatic towns of the German Empire. As with 



60 America Abroad. 

Bremen, Hamburg is divided into the Altstadt and 
Neustadt; the latter having been formerly surrounded 
by fortifications, and the suburbs of St. George and 
St. Pauli, the one on the north-east, and the other on 
the west side. Outside the Dammthor, a new quarter 
has recently sprung up. Hamburg is advantageously 
located on the broad lower Elbe, which, by reason of 
the tide rising twice daily, admits the entrance of ves- 
sels of the largest tonnage. It is also connected by 
railways with all countries of the continent. The Al- 
ster, a small stream at the north part of the city, forms 
a large basin outside the town, and a smaller one with- 
in it, thus greatly enhancing its facility for commerce. 

Hamburg is a thoroughly modern city, and this, to- 
gether with the enterprising character of its inhabitants, 
sufficiently accounts for the familiar almost American 
impression it leaves on the traveller, and which has 
gained for it the title of "the suburb of New York." 

Hotels. — First-class: Hotel de TEurope, Streit's 
Hotel, Victoria, Hotel St. Petersbourg. 

Less pretentious : Wiezel's Hotel, Zingg's, Hoefer's. 

Sights. — i. Harbor. 2. Elbhohe (locally known as 
the Stintfang). 3. St. Pauli. 4. Exchange. 5. Church 



America Abroad. 61 

of St. Nicholas (daily from 12:30 to 2:30). 6. Johan- 
neum, (an edifice in the Italian style). 7. Binnen- 
Alster. 8. Kunsthalle. 9. Botanical Garden and Zoolo- 
gical Garden. 10. Environs of Hamburg. 

Theatres. — Stadt-Theatre (begins 6:30) ; Thalia 
Theatre (chiefly comedies); Schultze's Theatre, at St. 
Pauli ; Damm's Tivoli ; Centralhalle, St. Pauli ; Odeon, 
at St. Pauli. 




62 America Abroad. 



CHAPTER VIII. 

1st das der Segen nicht des Donaustrandes ? 
Das blaue Auge meines Vaterlandes ? 
Der Deutsche wacht, o Flut an deiner Wiege 
An deiner Bahre weint das Morgenland. 

Karl Beck. 

AUSTRIA. 

The Austro-Hungarian monarchy is, measured by 
its territorial dimensions, the second largest empire in 
Europe. Its population, according to the latest census, 
numbers about. 40,000,000. It comprises the south- 
eastern portion of Central Europe and more than one- 
half of the Danube territory. The German population 
amounts to about 36 per cent. Austria's chief industry 
is the manufacture of woolen goods, linen, cotton, etc., 
and its significance as an industrial as well as a com- 
mercial country is steadily increasing. According to 
the Pragmatic sanction of April 19th, 17 13, Austria is 
an indivisible empire, of which the crown is inherit- 
able to the male and female line of the Hapsburg-Lor- 
raine dynasty. Since October 20, i860, it has a con- 
stitutional form of government. 



America Abroad. 6? 



o 



1 . VIENNA. — The capital of the Empire of Austria 
and residence of the Emperor is favorably situated on the 
Danube Canal in a plain surrounded by distant moun- 
tains. The Danube Canal is at this point considerably 
widened by the influx of the Wien at the east side of 
the city. Prior to 1863, the city was divided into the 
city proper and thirty-four suburbs, but now consists 
of nine sections: 1. Interior, or city. 2. Leopoldstadt. 
3. Landstrasse. 4. Wieden. 5. Margarethen. 6. Maria- 
hilf. 7. Neubau. 8. Josephstadt. 9. Alsergrund. In 
addition to these, there are eighteen suburbs beyond 
the boundary lines, immediately connected with the 
city, although under the supervision of the Vienna po- 
lice, viz.: Hernals, Funfhaus, Rudolphsheim, Ottak- 
ring, Wahring, Unter-Meidling, Simmering, Gaudenz- 
dorf, Sechshaus, Neulerchenfeld, Ober-Dobling, Wil- 
helmsdorf, Nussdorf, Heiligenstadt, Hietzing, Ober- 
Meidling, Unter-Dobling and Weinhaus. According to 
the census of 187 1, the interior of the city contained a 
population of 67,752, while the whole of the nine dis- 
tricts contain 635,494 inhabitants and 10,380 houses. 
Including the suburbs, the entire population is little 
less than 850,000. Some of the suburbs are connected 
with the interior by beautiful bridges, notably, the 



64 America Abroad. 

Leopoldstadt quarter, lying on the north side of the 
Danube Canal, which is crossed by eight bridges of 
more or less artistic merit. The almost insignificant 
Wien is crossed by no less than fifteen bridges. The 
interior of the city offers the principal attractions to 
visitors ; it extends from the Ringstrasse to the Franz 
Joseph Quai, and is the centre of business, art, etc. 

Hotels. — First-class : Grand Hotel, Imperial, Me- 
tropole, Hotel de France, Hotel Austria. 

Less pretentious : Ungarische Krone, Weisser Wolf, 
Hotel Holler, Stadt London (in the Postgasse). 

Sights. — 1. Church of St. Stephens (tower 453 ft.) 
2. Trinity Column. 3. Hofburg. 4. Monument of Em- 
peror Francis I. 5. Equestrian Statue of Emperor 
Joseph II. 6. Augustine Church. 7. Volksgarten. 8. 
Hofgarten and Collections. 9. Ringstrasse. 10. Alber- 
tina. ti. New Opera House. 12. Carlskircbe. 13. 
National Museum. 14. Belvedere and Collections. 15. 
Arsenal. 16. Museum of Weapons. 17. Academy of 
Art. 18. Votive, or Memorial Church. 19. Lichten- 
stein Gallery. 20. Prater or public park. 

Theatres. — Hofburg Theatre (tragedy, comedy, 



America Abroad. 65 

and classical drama) ; Opera, Stadt Theatre, (Seiler- 
statte 25); Theatre an der Wien; Leopoldstadt Carl 
Theatre; Joseph stadt Theatre; - Strampfer Theatre 
(Tuchlauben 16); Residenz Theatre (Johannesgasse, 
22); and various others known as summer theatres. 

Routes. — Vienna to Linz. Western Railway in 
4^2 to 7^ hours. Express fare, 10 fl., 80 kr. and 8 fl., 
10 kr.; Linz to Salzburg in 3^ to 4)4 hours, fares 7 fl. 
13 kr. and 5 fl. 35 kr. Excursions to Attersee, Mond- 
see, Salzburg to Insbruck, Zillerthal. Routes north to 
Prague, Pilsen, Carlsbad, Marienbad, etc. 

PRAGUE (Bohemian, Prahd). — Has a circumference 
of about nine miles and is the ancient capital of Bohe- 
mia. It contains about 178,000 inhabitants (comprising 
suburbs and garrison), of which about four-sevenths are 
Bohemians and three-sevenths Germans, including 
I 3>°°° Jews. It occupies a remarkably picturesque 
and imposing position in the valley of the Moldau 
extending partly to the adjoining hills, the venerable 
Hradschin rising in its grandeur above the many hand- 
some and interesting mediaeval edifices and numerous 
towers. Prague is peculiarly attractive on account of 
its superb surroundings and its many historical rem- 
iniscenses and associations. 



66 America Abroad. 

Hotels. — First-class: Hotel de Saxe, Englisher 
Hof Schwarzes Ross. 

Less pretentious : Erzherzog Stephan (Wenzelsplatz), 
Drei Karpfen. 

Sights. — i. Pulverthurm (15th century). 2. Teyn- 
kirche. 3. Rathhaus. 4. Collegium Clementinurn. 5. 
Statue of Charles IV. 6. Carolinum. 7. Carl's Bridge. 
8. Kaiser-Franz Bridge. 9. Monument of Francis I. 
10. Radetzky Monument, it. Church of St. Nicholas. 
12. Hradschin. 13. Cathedral. 14. The Burg. 15 
Belvedere. 16. Rossmarkt. 17. Citadel. 18. Jews Quar- 
ter, or Josephstadt. 

Theatres. — German (performances daily); Bohemi- 
an (4 times a week); Neustadter, near the Ross Gate. 




America Abroad. 67 



CHAPTER IX. 

Gay, sprightly land of mirth and social ease 
Pleas'd with thyself, whom all the world can please. 

Goldsmith's Traveller. 

FRANCE. 

France, until September, 1870, an empire, since a 
republic, is situated on the western side of continental 
Europe, and is bounded on the north by Germany, 
Belgium and the English Channel ; on the east by 
Germany, Switzerland, Italy and part of the Med- 
iterranean; on the south by the Mediterranean and 
Spain; and on the west by the Atlantic. 

Since 1871, when its two provinces were ceded to 
Germany, it comprises 206,474 square miles, being 
four and a half times as large as the State of New York, 
or nearly twice as large as Great Britain and Ireland. 
Its population previous to the war, was 38,192,064, of 
which 87,000 were Jews, 9,000 gypsies, and a small 
percentage Belgians, English, etc. Its present popu- 
lation is 37,000,000, having lost 1,597,228 by the ces- 
sion of Alsace-Lorraine. 

The geographical position of France gives to it im- 



6S America Abroad. 

portant natural advantages. Its extensive coasts are 
washed by the waters of the Atlantic and the English 
Channel a distance of 590 miles, and by the Mediter- 
ranean 360, while it is protected inland on the east by 
the Vosges, the Jura, and the Alps; on the south by the 
Pyrenees, and on the north by an artificial line defined 
by treaty and guarded by numerous fortresses. 

By far the greater portion of France consists of a 
succession of gentle slopes and fertile plains. Of its 
rivers, the most important are, the Seine, Loire, Ga- 
ronne and Rhone. The absence of obstructive high 
grounds between the different river basins has early 
suggested the construction of numerous canals, which, 
with the different lines of railway that cross the coun- 
try in every direction, and mostly radiate from Paris, 
have greatly contributed to the development of the in- 
ternal traffic of the country. The Canal du Midi unites 
in the south the Garonne, which flows into the Bay of 
Biscay, with the Mediterranean. The Canal du Cen- 
tre, connects the Loire, which likewise empties into 
the above bay, with the Saone, which, joining the 
Rhone, empties into the Mediterranean. The Canal 
de Bourgogne unites the waters of the Saone with 
those of the Yonne, thereby connecting the rivers 



America Abroad. 69 

Rhone and Seine; while the Canal du Rhone au 
Rhin effects a junction between these rivers by means 
of the River Doubs. 

France is destitute of lakes of any significance, with 
the exception of some small mountain lakes in the 
higher valleys of the Pyrenees, and Lake Geneva on its 
frontier, possessing that portion of this lake, which 
bounds Savoy on the north, or nearly the whole of 
one side. 

France is well provided with extensive forests, chiefly 
toward the central portion of the country. Its mineral 
resources are extensive, particularly iron, which oc- 
curs almost without limit along the chains of the Vos- 
ges, Cevennes and Jura; also in the peninsula of Brit- 
tany and the basins of the Garonne and Loire. 

The political division of France, prior to the Revo- 
lution of 1789, was into thirty-four provinces of which 
many had at some time been independent States. It 
has been redivided into eighty-seven Departments, 
named principally from the rivers by which they are 
intersected, or from the mountain ranges which border 
them. The Departments are governed by a Prefect 
appointed by the General Government, and are sub- 
divided in arrondissements, cantons and communes. 



7o 



America Abroad. 



The currency of the country consists of francs =19^ 
cents, and centimes = \ cent. One franc = 100 
centimes, and although the franc and centimes are the 
legally recognized currency, the sou = 5 centimes = 
1 cent is usual in ordinary trade. 

All railways allow sixty pounds of luggage free, and 
as all trunks, etc. are weighed and registered, it is ad- 
visable that the traveller endeavor to be at the station 
twenty minutes before the time announced for starting. 




72 America Abroad. 



PARIS. — Perhaps no city has experienced such radi- 
cal changes as Paris, under the second Empire. Ex- 
tensive districts of dilapidated buildings and numer- 
ous irregular streets disappeared and were replaced by 
elegant boulevards, beautiful squares and palatial edi- 
fices. Public improvements begun under former 
Governments, were completed, and new projects of 
vast scope were conceived and begun, particularly the 
parks, squares, etc., were enlarged and beautified, and 
what was of still greater importance, the entire city was 
supplied with an efficient system of canalisation, the 
streets were lighted sufficiently, and the city given an 
ample supply of water. Paris is at present enjoying the 
fruits of these improvements, being not only one of the 
most beautiful cities, but from a sanitary point of view, 
one of the most perfect. The present administration is 
energetically prosecuting the labors of its predecessors 
and has succeeded in removing the devastations of the 
Commune replacing them by buildings of modern 
architectural beauty. Paris has a population of about 
1,890,000 — among them 115,000 paupers. 

In no other country do all its attractions (excepting, 
of course, natural scenery, etc.,) concentrate so per- 



America Abroad. 73 

fectly in its capital as in Fiance; and assuming that 
the tourist desires " to do " Paris without unneces- 
sary delay, we will forthwith proceed to describe the 
centre where " magnificence, elegance and luxury 
reign supreme." Then making Paris our starting-point, 
we will mention some of the principal routes through 
France. 

On arriving at Paris, the traveller is subjected to a 
very great annoyance in being obliged to wait a full half- 
hour, while the octroi, or custom-house authorities, 
spread out along the tables the entire baggage arriv- 
ing by the train; and notwithstanding that your bag- 
gage may have undergone examination at some fron- 
tier octroi, it is generally examined again and passed 
definitely. Engage your voiture or omnibus immedi- 
ately on arriving. 

Hotels. — First-class: Hotel Cailleux (Northern 
Railway Station); Hdtel de la Gare (Eastern or Strass- 
burg Railway Station) ; Hotel de Londres (Western, 
Gare St. Lazare) ; Hotel de New- York (Gare St. 
Lazare); Grand Hotel; Hotel Chatham. 

Less pretentious : Ville de Bale (at Strassb. Railroad 
station) Hotel de la Tamise. 



74 America Abroad. 

Sights. — i. General view. 2. The Boulevards. 3. 
the Docks. 4. Place de la Concorde. 5. Rue de la Paix 
and Rue Castiglione. 6. Place Vendome. 7. The Office of 
Justice. 8. Passage de l'Opera. 9. Passage des Princes. 
10. the Bourse, or Exchange, n. Place of the Bastile. 
12. Rue de Rivoli. 13. Palace of Industry. 14. Dio- 
rama of Paris. 15. Place de l'Elysee. 16. The Garden 
and Ruins of the Tuileries. 17. The Louvre. 18. Palais 
Royal, National Library. 19. Notre Dame. 20. Boule- 
vard des Italiens. 21. The Luxembourg. 22. The Pan- 
theon. 23. Botanical Gardens. 

Theatres. — Theatre Italien (Italian Opera, Rue 
Neuve St. Augustin) ; Opera Comique (Place des Ital- 
iens); Odeon (Place de TOdeon); Gymnase Drama- 
tique (Boulevard, Bonne-Nouvelles 38) ; Vaudeville 
(Boulevard des Capucines and Chaussee d'Antin); 
Varietes (Boul. Montmartre); Theatre du Palais Royal 
(Palais Royal, N. W. corner); Bouffes Parisiennes (Pas- 
sage Choiseul) ; Theatre de la Porte St. Martin (Boul. 
St. Martin); Renaissance (cor. Boul. St. Martin and 
Rue de Bondy) ; Theatre du Chatelet (Place du 
Chatelet) ; Theatre National Lyrique (Square des 
Arts-et-Metiers) ; Theatre Historique (Place du Cha- 
telet) ; Ambigu Comique (Boul. St. Martin) ; Folies 



America Abroad. 75 

Dramatiques (Boul. St. Martin and Rue de Bondy); 
Theatre de Cluny (Boul. St. Germain); Theatre du 
Chateau d'Eau (Rue de Malte). 

Routes. — i. Paris to Havre via Rouen and Yvetot. 
2. Paris to Cherbourg via Nantes, Evreux, Caen, and 
Bayeux, with excursions to Trouville, Honfleur, St. L6, 
Granville, St. Malo and Dinan. 3. Paris to Orleans, 
Agen and Tarbes, via Chateauroux, Limoges, Peri- 
gueux, Lectoure and Auch. 4. Paris to Basle via Nogent, 
Troyes, Chaumont, Vesoul, Belfort, Mulhouse. 5. Ly- 
ons to Strassburg via Bourg, Chalons, Verdun, Metz, 
and Thionviile, etc. 




America Abroad. 77 



M ARSE ILL ES — Marseilles was founded by the Phoe- 
nicians about 650 before Christ, and was built up by- 
refugees seeking to escape the vengeance of Cyrus. 
Its superior location soon made it the commercial cen- 
tre of the countries surrounding it, and the city was 
soon rendered intellectually more attractive by the 
erection of public buildings devoted to the cultivation 
of science and art. 

Marseilles is now the commercial capital of France,, 
possessing the most commodious harbor in the country. 
Its entrance is superbly defended by Forts St. Jean and 
St. Nicholas, surmounting the two hills on either side, 
and by the fortified islands Chateau d'lf, Pomegne and 
Ratonneau. It contains a population of about 300,000 
souls. 

Hotels.— Grand Hotel du Louvre et de la Paix; 
Grand Hotel de Marseilles. 

Sights. — 1. Museum (with paintings of some of the 
Italian and Dutch masters). 2. Church St. Victor. 3. 
Notre-Dame de la Garde. 4. Docks. 



78 America Abroad. 



CHAPTER X. 



They love their land because it is their own. 
And scorn to give aught reason why. — Halleck. 



HOLLAND. 



Holland constitutes an independent State, situated 
on the German Ocean, between Belgium and Prussia. 
Its dimensions in the direction of north and south vary 
from fifty to two hundred miles; its mean breadth is 
about one hundred miles. The area of the province at 
present forming the kingdom of the Netherlands — that 
is, including the duchies of Luxemburg and Limburg 
— is 13,598 square miles. The population, not includ- 
ing its colonies, is 3,809,527, consisting of 72 percent. 
Dutch, 14 per cent. Frisians, and about 68,000 Jews. 

The general aspect of Holland is different from that 
of any country in Europe. Its surface presents one 
grand net-work of canals, which are very extensive and 
answer the purpose of roads in other countries. 

The principal occupation of the Dutch is agricul- 
ture, the chief products being grain, flax, hemp, to- 



America Abroad. 79 

bacco, hops, and vegetables. Holland's commerce at 
one time rivalled that of England. 

The climate of Holland is not inviting, being colder 
than the opposite coasts of England in similar lati- 
tudes, and the winter is, with rare exceptions, severe. 
The atmosphere is usually moist, in consequence of 
the abundance of water. The eastern provinces are 
more arid and healthier than those immediately adja- 
cent to the coast. The climate of Holland, indeed, 
is damp, raw, and cold for eight months in the year; 
hot and unwholesome for four. 

Accounts in Holland are kept in guilders, stivers 
and cents. Travellers should provide themselves with 
Dutch money before entering Holland. 

The custom-house officers in Holland are particu- 
larly civil to American travellers. English, German 
and French are generally spoken in the larger hotels. 
Cabs are here known as " vigilantes." Other convey- 
ances such as omnibuses, etc., are also in waiting at 
the various stations. The charges at hotels are, bed- 
rooms 2 to 3 guilders ; dinner (at 4 o'clock), 2 to 3 
guilders ; service, 1 guilder ; breakfast (tea or coffee, 
with bread and butter), 15 stivers. 

We would advise travellers to accustom themselves 



80 America Abroad. 

to drink mineral waters during their sojourn in Hol- 
land, as the ordinary water is unwholesome and a fre- 
quent cause of indisposition. 

/. ROTTERDAM. — Rotterdam is situated on the right 
bank of the Maas, and contains a population, accord- 
ing to the last census, of 132,054, being the second 
city in Holland in point of population and commercial 
importance. It possesses a convenient harbor, ample 
docks and numerous canals. 

Hotels. — First-class: Hotel Victoria. 

Sights. — 1. Museum (daily, except Mondays, from 
11 to 3. On Sundays, entrance 5 cents, from 10 to 4, 
other days 50 cents. Magnificent collection of Dutch 
and Flemish painters, such as Cuyp, Rembrandt, Dii- 
rer, the Wouvermanns, Rubens, etc.). 2. Docks. 3. 
Zoological Gardens (beyond the Delft Gate). 4. Ex- 
change. 5. Custom-house. 6. Stadthouse. 7. Palace 
of Justice. 8. Admiralty. 9. Church of St. Law- 
rence. 

Trains every few hours for Amsterdam, the Hague, 
Haarlem, Utrecht, and the Rhine. Also barges, or 
" trekschuiten" for Delft, fare 40 cents, time 2 hours. 



America Abroad. 81 

2. THE HAGUE. — The Hague has a population of 
about 100,000, and is probably the best built city in 
Europe. It is situated about three miles from the Ger- 
man Ocean. The streets, of modern appearance, are 
wide, and here and there adorned by beautiful walks, fine 
residences, cultivated gardens, and villas of some pre- 
tensions to architectural beauty. The Hague is the 
seat of government, of the Supreme Court of Justice 
and the resident city of the foreign Ministers. It is 
famous for its unrivalled collections of paintings by 
the Dutch masters. 

Hotel. — Bellevue. 

Sights. — 1. National Museum (containing the cele- 
brated " Young Bull," by Paul Potter, for which the 
Dutch Government offered Napoleon two hundred and 
fifty thousand guilders for permitting it to remain at 
the Hague). 2. Royal Cabinet of Curiosities (daily 
from 9 to 3 p. m.). 3. King's Palace, near the Museum. 
4. Palace of the Prince of Orange. 5. Zoological and 
Botanical Garden. 6. Public Baths. 7. Willem's 
Park. 8. " T Huis in 't Bosch," or " The House in 
the Woods " (former residence of the late Queen of 
Holland). 



82 " America Abroad. 

Theatre, — French and Dutch (performances 4 times 
a week). 

3. AMSTERDAM.— §0 called from the " dam "on the 

Amstel, which intersects the town. It is the largest 
commercial city in Holland, and one of the most inter- 
esting in Europe. Its population is nearly 300,000. 

The city, built in the shape of a semi-circle, was for- 
merly surrounded by ramparts, which have since been 
planted with trees and laid out into broad avenues. 
The streets are less regular, and narrower than those 
of the Hague, but are in regard to buildings equally as 
attractive. The four canals, Princen Gracht, Keyser 
Gracht, Herren Gracht, and Singel Gracht, add con- 
siderably to the superior sanitary condition of the city. 
The canals, which are very numerous, divide the city 
into about ninety islands, joined together by three hun- 
dred bridges of more or less beauty. Like Venice, 
Amsterdam rests on piles driven into the boggy soil. 

Hotels — Hotel Amstel, Brack's Doelen Hotel. 

Sights. — 1. Royal Palace, at the Damm. 2. Museum 
with Collection of Paintings of Dutch and Flemish 
Masters [(open from 10 a. m. to 3 p. m.) 3. New Church. 



America Abroad. $3 

4. " Oude Man Huis." containing paintings of merit. 
Admission 50 cents. 5. Fodor Museum (10 to 2 p. m. 
entrance 50 cents). 

Theatres. — There are three theatres in Amsterdam, 
(closed from May to September), in which the perform- 
ances are in Dutch, Italian and French. Frascati's 
concerts are much frequented in summer and fall. 

Steamer leaves weekly for Hamburg, London, Hull, 
St. Petersburg and Stockholm. 

Routes. — 1. Rotterdam to Amsterdam via the Hague, 
Ley den, and Haarlem. 2. Amsterdam to Cologne via 
Utrecht and Arnheim, time5,hrs. 25., fare 15^2 marks. 
Rotterdam to Hanover via Salzbergen. Railway in 11^ 
to 123^ hrs., fare 20 guilders; 2d class, 15 ; 3d class, 
10. Shortest route to Rotterdam and Berlin. Custom- 
house at Bentheim. 



84 America Abroad. 



CHAPTER XL 



Here sunburn' d Labor swings his Cyclop arms. 

— 0. W. Holmes. 



BELGIUM. 

The Kingdom of Belgium has been established 
in its present form, since the separation of the pro- 
vinces from that of Holland by the Revolution of 
1830. It is situated on the North Sea, between 
Holland, Germany and France, and contains about 
5,021,000 inhabitants, being the most densely popula- 
ted country in Europe. Its territorial dimensions are 
small compared with those of other European States, 
notwithstanding which, it enjoys by reason of its com- 
pact form (surrounded on three sides by active com- 
mercial nations), and its industry which is proverbial, 
an enviable position in commercial importance. It is 
separated from England by a few hours voyage only. 
On the West are the two large and commodious ports 
of Antwerp (10 hours from London), and Ostend, 
while its Eastern boundary is distant only a few leagues 
from the Rhine, which affords ample means of com- 



America Abroad. 85 

munication with Central and Southern Europe. It is 
conveniently situated for disposing of its productions 
in the most favorable markets, and its generally level 
surface intersected by a close network of railways, 
offers great facilites for local transit trade. Belgium's 
climate is milder than that of Holland; and the country 
is well watered by the River Maas and Scheldt, and 
their tributaries, Sambre, Ourthe, Werze, Lys, etc. 

The abundance of its rural products being far in ex- 
cess of its own consumption, it is enabled to supply a 
considerable portion of the surrounding countries. 

/. ANTWERP contains about 125,000 inhabitants. It 
is situated on the right bank of the Scheldt, is the chief 
port of Belgium, and commands, in consequence of 
its favorable position, an extensive foreign trade. The 
city is superbly fortified. The citadel of Antwerp 
picturesquely occupies a part of the right bank of the 
Scheldt, which is navigable for vessels of the largest 
burden. During the 12th to 14th centuries Antwerp 
almost rivalled in commercial importance such cities 
as London, Venice, etc.; her prosperity, however, was 
disastrously affected by the treaty of Westphalia in 
1648, by which its merchants were driven to Amster- 



86 America Abroad. 

dam and Rotterdam. It is still a flourishing city and 
the thrift and industry of the inhabitants is apparent 
everywhere. 

. Hotel. — Hotel St. Augustine, on the Place Verte. 

Sights. — i. Cathedral (i franc fee, contains Ru- 
ben's great Master-piece the " Descent from the Cross.") 
2. Museum (formerly Convent of the Recollects), con- 
taining specimens of the Masters of the Flemish school, 
Vandyke, Jordaens, Rubens, Teniers, etc.) 3. Church 
of St. jaques. 4. St. Paul's Church. 5. Church of St. 
Augustine. 6. St. Andrew's Church. 7. City Hall. 8. 
Exchange. 9. Theatre. 10. House of Rubens in the 
Rue de Rubens. 11. Zoological Gardens. 

Theatres. — Theatre near Porte St. George. 

2. BRUSSELS. — Brussels, the capital of Belgium, is 
charmingly situated on the Senne, about fifty miles 
from its influx into the sea. The upper part of the 
town is rendered particularly attractive by a beautiful 
park, and contains the buildings of the royal court, 
and Government Departments. Here also are situated 
the mansions of the wealthier classes. The H6tel-de- 



America Abroad. 87 

Ville or City Hall in this quarter is a beautiful edifice, 
in the gothic style, and is probably one of the most per- 
fect specimens of that style of architecture in Europe. 
Its erection dates back as far as the 15th century. 

Hotels. — First-class: Mengelle, Bellevue, Hotel 
de l'Univers, Grand Hotel de Saxe, Grand Hotel. 

Sights. — 1. H6tel-de- Ville. 2. Place des Martyres. 
3. Place de la Monnaie (Mint, Exchange, etc.) 4. Pal- 
ace (Place Royal) with paintings, by Teniers, Dow, 
Vandyke, etc. 5. Cathedral of St. Gudule (founded 
in 1010). 6. Notre-Dame de la Chapelle (founded in 
1 134). 7. Notre-Dame de Bonsecours. 8. Bourse. 9. 
Excursion to Waterloo, about 12 miles from Brussels. 

Theatres. — Theatre des Galeries, Place de la Mon- 
naie. 

Routes. — Brussels to Luxembourg via Namur and 
Arlon. Time 6 h., fare 17 francs 60 c. Brussels to 
Ostend via Ghent and Bruges. Time 3 hrs. 42 min., 
fare 8 frs. 65 c. Brussels to Paris via Hal, Mons and 
Valenciennes. Time 9 hrs. 20 min., fare 40 frs. 



America Abroad. 89 



CHAPTER XII. 

Ein angenehm Gemisch von Bergen, Fels, und Seen, 
FSllt nach und nach erbleicht, doch deutlich ins Gesicht 
Die blaue Feme schlieszt ein Kranz beglantzer Hohen 
Worauf ein schwarzer Wald die letzten Strahlen bricht. 
*********** 
Bald aber ofnet sich ein Strich von griinen Thalern 
Die, hin und her gekrummt, sich im Entfernen schmalern. 

Albr. v. Haller. 

SWITZERLAND. 

For the guidance of the tourist unaccustomed to 
feats of pedestrianism, we preface our description 
of Switzerland with a few brief remarks concern- 
ing the preparations peculiarly necessary to travel- 
ling in a country where the main topographical 
features are so entirely different from those of 
other European districts, and in which, by reason of 
the mountainous character of this region, the im- 
portance of railway transit becomes a secondary con- 
sideration, although the demands of commerce and the 
progressive spirit of the Swiss have not failed to assert 
themselves here also by connecting the larger cities by 



90 America Abroad. 

rail, and rendering it possible to traverse the country 
in from six to nine hours if necessary. 

The pedestrian will find it of foremost importance 
to undertake all foot tours of any length early in the 
morning, beginning, if health permits, before breakfast 
and trusting to chance (in which he will be rarely disap- 
pointed) to encounter some suitable stopping place to 
partake of a frugal breakfast. Avoid gratifying the 
appetite too liberally during the day, and postpone the 
most substantial meal until after sunset. As to the 
hour for retiring, the traveller must consult the dicta- 
tion of his own feelings with, if anything, a bias for 
early retirement. 

The inconvenience of carrying a superabundance of 
baggage will nowhere be more keenly felt than during 
a foot tour through Switzerland. 

Do not undertake excursions into the higher Alps 
before July or August, nor later than the end of Sep- 
tember. 

The enthusiastic novice in mountain-climbing too fre- 
quently consults but the promptings of his animal spirits, 
in his ardor, at the outset of his journey, and begins 
with imprudently undertaking feats beyond his powers 
of endurance. He should commence with moderate 



America Abroad. 91 

walks of from six to ten hours a day, and gradually 
increase to longer performances, after having ascer- 
tained what amount of fatigue can be tolerated with 
impunity, and without overtaxing his general " staying 
abilities." The common sense conveyed in the Italian 
proverb — Chi va piano va sano, chi va sano va lon- 
ta/z<?— should prevail when the tourist is tempted to 
indulge in any spurts. 

Glacier expeditions should, if possible, be under- 
taken in the morning before the rays of the sun have 
had occasion to melt or soften the ice and snowy de- 
posit closing up the fissures during the night. 

Guides are unnecessary for well frequented paths, 
and routes like those of the Pilatus, Wengern Alp, 
Faulhorn, Rigi, Gemmi, Scheideck and other tours in 
the Bernese "Oberland." Should the traveller, when 
en route, find his knapsack irksome, the first urchin he 
may encounter will cheerfully disencumber him for a 
trifling gratuity. Carriages may be obtained at almost 
any village in cases of unexpected fatigue. 

In the Northern Alps the principal stations for guides 
are: Interlaken, Thun, Grindelwald, Meiringen, 
Lauterbrunnen, Lucerne, Arth and Zug, and for the 



92 America Abroad. 

Southern Alps (Mont Blanc, etc.), Martigny, Cha- 
moimy, Zermatt, etc. 

A favorite tour for practiced walkers is, Chamouny 
via the Col du Bonhomme, the Col de la Seigne, Cour- 
mayeur, the Col de Ferret, Hospice of the Great 
St. Bernard, Aosta, Chatillon, the Matterjoch, Zermatt, 
Saas, Monte Moro, Macugnaga, Varallo, Orta and 
Monte Motterone to Lago Maggiore. Time, 10 to 12 
days. Guides only necessary at Monte Moro and 
Matterjoch. Another interesting tour of about 6 days 
duration is: Geneva, Martigny, Brieg, Domo d'Ossala, 
Lago Maggiore through the Simplone Pass. Guides 
not necessary. 



Concerning the early history of Switzerland much 
must be left to conjecture and speculation, and although 
it is generally assumed by historians to have been first 
peopled by the Helvetii (who at some earlier period 
succeeded in dispossessing the Rhaeti), their opinion 
has been somewhat shaken by the results of more re- 
cent researches. 



America Abroad. 93 

We know positively, however, that in 58 B. C. the 
Helvetii were conquered by the Romans, and in 15 
B. C. again by the Rhaeti. During the occupation of 
the Romans, improvements of astounding magnitude 
(of which more or less striking instances will be fre- 
quently met with by the tourist) were undertaken, and 
prominent among these are the present passes over the 
St. Bernard to Basel (Basilea), and over the St. Julier, 
Septimer and Spliigen to Bregenz, which were laid out 
during this period in order to facilitate rapid concen- 
trations of military forces, deemed necessary to sup- 
press the rebellious outbreaks which constantly threaten- 
ed, as well as to further the commercial intercourse with 
the surrounding provinces which had already sprung 
up. These roads, although constructed at a time 
■mthe employment of such dynamic agents as steam 
and explosives was unknown, are even in our age of 
progress considered models of engineering skill. 

About the year 400 A. D., the Allemannii penetrated 
into the country, and were, after a brief occupation, 
conquered by the Francs. Then followed the gradual 
incorporation of Switzerland into the German Empire, 
and the administration of internal affairs by the Dukes 
of Zahringen, under whom important privileges were 



94 America Abroad. 

granted to the cities, and the country began to flourish 
generally. On the extinction of the House of Zahrin- 
gen, in 1218, however, Switzerland was again broken 
up into numerous states of more or less magnitude, and 
ruled by various princes, the most powerful of whom 
were the Hapsburgs, Kyburgs and members of the 
House of Savoy. The peaceful possession of these 
rulers was frequently interrupted by occasional strug- 
gles for independence on the part of the various cantons 
and cities (notably Zurich, Basel and Berne, who be- 
came independent in the 13th century), and their per- 
severance in the cause of freedom and republicanism 
was ultimately rewarded in 18 15 with the Alliance of 
most of the cantons and their final confederation under 
the Constitution of September 12, 1848. The present 
Confederation consists of 25 republics and 22 cantons, 
of which the legislative power is vested in the 
" Bundesversammlung." — Nationalrath (one member 
to each 20,000 souls) and the Standerath, and the ex- 
ecutive in the " Bundesrath," of seven members. 

Switzerland at present has a population of about 
2,700,000 inhabitants. Its commerce, in consequence 
of its favorable position between four of the most 
populous countries is enormous, and consists chiefly 



America Abroad, 95 

in the export of cheese, cotton, silks, lace and 
iron manufactures. Its industrial branches are very 
numerous. 

The Alps extend from the south and east to the 
central part of the country, and the lower country is 
well irrigated by its many rivers, including the Rhine, 
Rhone, Tessin, Inn, and the lakes Bodensee, Geneva, 
Neuchatel, Biel, Murten, Lucerne, Zurich, Thun, 
Brienz, Zug, Lugano, etc., adding immensely to its 
success in agricultural enterprises. 

A 

/. BALE. — Basle, or Basel, the principal town of the 
half canton Bale-Ville, has a population of 48,000, and 
was founded by the Roman army on its retreat to the 
Rhine. The town is proverbially prosperous in conse- 
quence of its situation immediately at the junction of 
the frontiers of Germany, France and Switzerland. It 
is connected with Klein-Basel on the right bank of the 
Rhine by a wooden bridge of considerable size, in the 
Centre of which is a curious obelisk with barometer, 
thermometer, etc. 

Hotels. — First-class: Hotel Euler, Three Kings, 
Schweizerhof, Faucon. 



g6 America Abroad. 

Less pretentious. — Hotel de la Poste. 

Sights. — i. Cathedral. 2. Cloisters (of which the 
oldest was constructed in 1362). 3. The Terrace or 
Pfalz. 4. Museum (Sunday, 10 to 12; Wednesday, 
2 to 4; other days, admission 1 franc). 5. University. 
6. Town Hall in the Market place. 7. Arsenal. 8. 
Spahlen Gate. 9. Fischmarket Fountain, Spahlen 
Fountain, etc. 

2. BERNE.- — With a population of 38,000, including 
its suburbs, is the capital of the Canton of the same 
name, and since 1848 also the capital of Switzerland. 
Berne was one of the first cities that gained its inde- 
pendence, and joined the Confederacy as early as 1353. 
The Canton is still the most important, although it was 
somewhat decreased in size and population by the 
separation of Argovie and Vaud in 1798. 

The city is situated at an elevation of 1765 feet on 
a peninsula of sandstone, formed by an abrupt curve 
of the Aare, which flows about one hundred- feet 
below. 

By far the greatest part of the industry of the city is 
concentrated in the main street, extending nearly a 



America Abroad. 97 

mile from the Ober-Thor to the Nydeck Bridge under 
the successive names of Spitalgasse, Marktgasse, Kram- 
gasse and Gerechtigkeitsgasse. The houses of the old 
town which are mostly built with arcades extending 
over the sidewalks, and are lined with booths and shops 
on both sides, give the streets a singular and massive 
appearance. A similar mode of building is found in 
other old European cities, in some parts of Strassburg 
and Bologna, for instance. The arcades are here 
known as the Lauben, and contribute greatly to 
the preservation of the characteristic features of 
Berne. 

How little the city has changed since almost three- 
quarters of a century, may be judged from the follow- 
ing description of Berne written in 1810 by L. Simond, 
which applies in every particular, except its increase 
in population, to the Berne of to-day. " It is not an 
easy matter to account for the first impression 
you receive upon entering Berne. You certainly feel 
that you have got to an ancient and great city. Yet 
before the eleventh century it had not a name, and 
its present population does not exceed twelve thou- 
sand souls. It is a republic ; yet it looks kingly. Some- 
thing of Roman majesty appears in, its lofty terraces ; 



98 America Abroad. 

" in those massy arches on each side of the streets ; in 
mi the abundance of water flowing night and day into 
" gigantic basins; in the magnificent avenues of trees." 

Hotels. — First-Class : Berner Hof, Bellevue 
Schweizerhof. 

Less pretentious : Storch, Emmenthaler Hof, Wilder 
Mann. 

Sights. — 1. Cathedral (beautiful Gothic structure 
begun in 142 1). 2. Clock Tower. 3. Museum. 4. 
University and Library. 5. Roman Catholic Church. 
6. Kindlifresser Fountain. 7. Rathhaus. 8. Kunstsaal. 
9. Kornhaus and Kornhaus-Keller. 10! Arsenal. 
11. Federal Hall. 12. Nydeck Bridge. 13. Bear's 
Den. 14. Schanzli (beautiful view of the surrounding 
Alps, etc.). 15. The " Enge " (on the Peninsula 
formed by the Aare). 

3. ZURICH. — Zurich is located, unrivalled in pic- 
turesqueness, at the northern end of the lake, and con- 
tains, with its suburbs, a population of 48,000 inhabi- 
tants. It is divided by the river Limmat, which here 
emerges from the lake, into the " Grosse Stadt " on the 
right, and the " Kleine Stadt " on the left -bank. The 



America Abroad. gg 

Limmat is joined on the outskirts of the town by the 
Sihl, which also flows along its western boundary. 
The city is well known for its extensive silk and cotton 
industry, and is, in a sense, the intellectual centre of 
German-Switzerland, possessing educational institu- 
tions of worldwide repute, and from which have gone 
forth such eminent men as Pestalozzi and Bodmer. A 
beautiful view of the lake and surrounding country 
may be had from the terrace at the Polytechnic. An 
excursion by steamboat on the lake should not be 
omitted by the traveller appreciative of beautiful 
landscape scenery. 

Hotels. — First-class: Hotel Baur au Lac, Bellevue, 
Zuricher Hof, Schwarzer Adler. 
Less pretentious : Sonne, Rossli. 

Sights.— i. The " Gross Miinster " (a basilica of the 
nth century). 2. Cloisters. 3. Town Hall. 4. 
"Hohe Promenade." 5. Polytechnic. 6. Cantonal 
Schools. 7. Augustine Church. 8. St. Peter's Church. 
9. Botanical Gardens, 10. The "Katz " (an elevation 
affording good view), n. Bauschanze. 12. Post-office. 

13, Collection of Ancient Armours in the Arsenal. 

14. The Uetliberg (excursion on the lake). 



ioo America Abroad. 

4. LUCERNE. — Lucerne is a town of about 16,000 
inhabitants, and is admirably situated on the River 
Reuss at its effluence from the lake. It is amphitheatri- 
cal in shape and is partly enclosed by the Rigi and 
Pilatus, and faced by the Urner and Engelburger Alps. 
Its massive walls and huge watch-towers give it the 
imposing appearance of a mediaeval town. 

Hotels. — First-class: National, Schweizerhof, Ho- 
tel Stadthof. 

Less pretentious : Adler, Rossli. 

Sights. — 1. The New Bridge. 2. Chapel Bridge. 
3. Old Wasserthurm. 4. St. Peter's Chapel. 5. Reuss 
Bridge. 6. Mill Bridge. 7. Schweizerhof Quay. 8. 
Protestant Church. 9. Stauffer Museum. 10. Arsenal. 
11. Church of the Jesuits. 12. Town Hall. Excur- 
sions to Rigi, Pilatus. 

5. GENEVA. — Geneva occupies a most charming 
position at the southern extremity of the lake, a little 
above the confluence of the rivers Rhone and Aare, 
and at a point where the beautiful azure waters of the 
Rhone emerge with astounding rapidity, dividing the 
Quartier de lTle from the town proper. 



102 America Abroad. 

Though the capital of one of the smallest cantons, it 
far exceeds all others in point of wealth and population, 
having, according to the last census, nearly 50,000 in- 
habitants, which number is largely swelled in summer 
and fall by transient visitors. 

The ancient Aurelia Allobrogum, or Geneva of his- 
tory, and principal part of the present town, lies on the 
left -bank of the Rhone, and contains the seat of Gov- 
ernment and centre of traffic. The more insignificent 
Quartier St. Gervais, on the right-bank, is steadily 
improving in consequence of the opening of the rail- 
way. Until recently it was a mere suburb inhabited 
by the poorer classes. 

Some years ago the old fortifications were removed 
and replaced by the beautiful promenades, since which 
time the railway has been constructed and other im- 
provements of more or less importance effected. 

Hotels. — First-class: Hotel de la Metropole, Ecu 
de Geneve. 

Less pretentious — Hotel de Geneve, Hdtel de la 
Monnaie. 

Sights. — 1. Pont du Mont-Blanc. 2. Rousseau's 
Island. 3. Quai du Mont-Blanc. 4. English Church. 



America Abroad. 



103 



5. Calvin's residence. 6. National Museum. 7. Jardin 
Anglais. 8. Pierres du Niton. 9. Russian Church. 
10. Cathedral. 11. Hotel-de-Ville. 12. Arsenal. 
13. Botanical Garden. 14. Musee Rath. 15. Academy 
Building. ' 16. Conservatoire de Musique. 17. Syna- 
gogue. 18. Excursion on the lake. 





PALAZZO PELIGRIXO — VENICE. 



America Abroad. 105 

CHAPTER XIII. 
ITALY. 

Far to the right, where Apennine ascends, „_T* 
Bright as the summer, Italy extends; ? .-J35H 

Its uplands sloping deck the mountain s side, 
Woods over woods in gay theatric pride; 
While oft some temple's mould' ring tops between, 
With venerable grandeur mark the scene. 3 ^^ 
Could nature's bounty satisfy the breast, ^ Jggj 
The sons of Italy were surely blest. SSt-'-"^ .... w 
— Goldsmith's Traveller. 

With the exception of the Republic of San Marino, 
and Savoy and Nice, which were ceded to France, the 
Kingdom of Italy occupies at present the entire Apen- 
nine peninsula. It also comprises Sardinia, Sicily, and 
numerous smaller islands, with a total population of 
about 28,000,000 souls. 

The principal occupation of one-third of its inhabi- 
tants is the pursuit of agriculture, which nourishes to a 
remarkable degree in northern Italy and in the vicinity 
of Naples. Its chief products are grain, wine, cotton, flax, 
olives, oranges, etc. Its industry, when compared with j 
its importance during the middle ages, is insignifi- ; 
cant, although it still ranks foremost in some branches . 
of industrial art; as, for instance, in the manufacture of 1 



106 America Abroad. 

artificial flowers, jewelry, ceramics, mosaic work, etc. 
The commerce of Italy, particularly with southern 
ports, is extensive. It is, however, not her commerce, 
nor her industry (though for both she, at one time, was 
envied by all nations) but her being 

" The home 
Of all Art yields and Nature can decree," 

and the inestimable contribution to the development 
of art and literature that distinguishes Italy, whose 
glory — unconfined to any particular place — sufficiently 
warrants, in the breast of the enthusiastic visitor, the 
generalization of 

" Vedi Napoli e poi mori ! " 
into 

See Italy and die ! 



The form of Government of Italy is that of a consti- 
tutional monarchy, on the basis of the Constitution of 
Sardinia of March 4, 1848. The crown vests in the 
male descent of the House of Savoy. 

Prior to the year i860 but few railways existed on 
the Apennine peninsula, and these, indeed, in conse- 



America Abroad. 107 

quence of their limited extent and generally bad man- 
agement, hardly tempted the hesitating tourist to de- 
cide in favor of entering a country which, even yet, 
is by many inevitably associated with banditti and 
lazzaroni, and with the idea that the natives gratify 
their highest ambition by driving the visitor to distrac- 
tion in indulging an unfortunate and irrepressible 
passion for grinding excruciating hand-organs. 

In spite of prejudices and difficulties, the many his- 
torical reminiscenses, and the inexhaustible store of 
literary and art treasures, together with its wonderful 
climate and unrivalled scenery, have from the earliest 
ages, exercised a charm on the natiye of more north- 
ern climes, and a visit to Italy has been and still is the 
ambitious aspiration of many a traveller. 

Thanks to the improvements since effected, foremost 
of which, is the construction of extensive railways, 
connecting northern and southern Italy by an almost 
continuous line, and by establishing regular communi- 
cation with its seaports through a well-managed and 
efficient maritime service, the cherished hopes of the 
traveller of to-day may be realized; the tourist is now 
enabled to explore — without any apprehensions as to 
the safety of his purse or person — the most hidden 



108 America Abroad. 

nook in the interior of provinces which were formerly 
hardly known to the ordinary tourist. 

The delays and annoyances also formerly existing 
in consequence of rigorous passport and custom-house 
examinations, and the exasperating variety of compli- 
cated monetary systems have disappeared, while the 
extortions of guides, and persistence in shocking ex- 
hibitions of an army of crippled mendicants insepar- 
ably connected with crossing the frontiers and travel- 
ling through the cities of these districts, have been 
reduced to a minimum through the energetic efforts of 
an exemplary police surveillance. 

Efforts in the direction of practically establishing 
a specie resumption are being made, although the 
difference in favor of the precious metals has been re- 
duced to but 5 to 6 per cent, and has varied very little 
within the last ten years. The traveller should, in 
order to avail himself of this benefit, procure French 
gold before entering Italy, which he can then change 
into paper-money for a premium at any bankers. 

It is advisable, in order to more safely resist the in- 
jurious influences to which the traveller is exposed 
on changing one climate for another, in a measure, 
to adjust his mode of living to the circumstances, 



America Abroad. 109 

and, as far as compatible with comfort, adopt that of 
the natives. This is especially important in the selec- 
tion of clothing for winter and summer, which should 
for both seasons be rather heavier than customary in 
our climate, as the stranger is unusually susceptible to 
cold at first. In summer, exposure to the sun's rays 
should also be avoided. 

A voyage on the Mediterranean and Adriatic is con- 
sidered almost indispensable to a tour in Italy, and 
should not, if circumstances allow, be omitted. 

/. MILAN (Mila/w, lat. Mediolanum). — The principal 
city in Lombardy, after its total destruction by the 
Emperor Frederick I, surnamed Barbarossa, was re- 
built on its present site in 1162. It is one of the 
wealthiest cities in Italy, its manufacturing interests, 
especially in silks, being enormous. It has a popula- 
tion with its suburbs of 265,000 inhabitants. Though 
situated on the insignificant Olona, its facilities for 
transportation and traffic are enhanced by its connec- 
tion with the Ticino and Lago Maggiore through the | 
Naviglio (canal) Grande, with the Ticino and Po by 
the Naviglio de Pavia, and with the Adda and Po and 
Lake Como by the Naviglio della Martesana, 



no America Abroad. 

The ancient part of the city, consisting chiefly of 
narrow and irregular streets, is surrounded by canals. 
The suburbs (borghi) have been founded on the out- 
skirts of these, and are named after the gates leading 
to them. There are eleven gates, prominent among 
which is the Porta Venezia, at the end of the new 
Corso Venezia, running into the Corso Vittorio Ema- 
nuele, which terminates at the Cathedral, and is the 
main thoroughfare of Milan. The Porta Sempione is a 
beautiful structure of pure Carrara marble. 

Hotels. — First-class: Hotel de la Ville, Hotel Ca- 
vour, Gran Bretagna, Hotel Reichmann. 

Less pretentious : Hotel Pozzo, St. Marco, Ancora, 
Trois Suisses. 

Sights. — i. Cathedral (dedicated to M arm Nascenti 
according to an inscription over its main portal, and 
considered by the Milanese as the eighth wonder of the 
world. It was founded in 1386, and restored and en- 
larged by the addition of a steeple in 1805 by Napo- 
leon.) 2. Piazza del Duomo. 3. Galleria Vittorio 
Emanuele. 4. Piazza della Scala. 5. Church of S. 
Fidele. 6. The Brera (9 to 4 daily, except Sundays, 12 to 
4; contains collections of paintings, coins, observatory, 



America Abroad. in 

library, etc., etc.). 7- Paintings in the above (famous 
among which is "The Sposalizio," of Rafael Sanzio). 8. 
Church of S. Maria del Carmine. 9. Piazza de' mer- 
canti. 10. Ambrosian Library (10 to 3; paintings Wed- 
nesdays, ioto2^. Contains, besides its two hundred 
thousand printed volumes, over fifteen thousand manu- 
scripts). 11. S. Maurizio. 12. S. Maria delle Gracie. 13. 
" Last Supper," by Leonardo da Vinci, at the northern 
extremity of S. Maria delle Gracie. 14. S. Ambrogio 
(founded by St. Ambrose on the ruins of an ancient 
temple to Bacchus). 15. S. Lorenzo (oldest church in 
Milan). 16. S. Maria presso S. Celso. 17. S. Ales- 
sandro. 18. S. Satiro. 19. The Ospedale Maggiore. 20. 
S. Carlo Borromeo. 21. S. Maria della Passione. 22. 
The Giardini Pubblici. 23. Museo civico. 24. Arco 
della Pace. 25. Cemetery (Cimitero monumentale). 

Theatres.— Teatro della Scala (next to the S. Carlo 
in Naples, the largest in Italy). Teatro alia Canno- 
biana (during carnival). Teatro Manzoni (at the Piaz- 
za della Scala, mostly comedies). Teatro S. Rade- 
gonda (to inferior operas). Teatro Carcano. Teatro 
Reale (operas). Popular performances at Fossati's and 
Cimiselli (Piazza d'Armi). 




RIALTO ON THE GRAND CANAL — VENICE. 



America Abroad. 113 

2. VENICE. — Venezia (lat. Venetid) is situated in a 
swampy part of the Adriatic Sea, under the 45 25' 
north latitude, about four kilometres from the main 
land in the Lagunes, which are protected against 
encroachments from the sea by the so-called 
Murazzi, or dikes. Its 16,000 houses and palaces 
are built on piles, and its 147 canals form 130 sections 
or islands, which are connected by 378 bridges, 
mostly of massive build. Its population is estimated 
to be 135,000, of which 35,000 are paupers. Its 
commerce, which, during the 12th to the 15th century, 
was unrivaled, has been partly regained by the ef- 
forts of Austria who had made it a free port. Gondols 
— here superseding omnibuses, fiacres, etc. — are in 
waiting at the depot and convey the stranger to any 
part of the city. 

Hoiels. — First-class : Grand Hotel Royal ; Eu- 
ropa ; Hotel Baur ; Vittoria. 

Less pretefitious: Sandwirth ; Vapore. 

Sights. — 1. Piazza S. Marco. 2. Procurazie. 3. Ba- 
silica S. Marco (a brilliant specimen of Byzantine 
architecture). 4. Campanile. 5. Clock Tower. 6. Piaz- 
zetta. 7. Ducal Palace. 8. Ponte dei Sospiri, or the 



ii4 America Abroad. 

" Bridge of Sighs." 9. Riva degli Schiavoni. 10. Ar- 
senal. 11. Academia. 12. Canalo Grande with the 
famous Rialto. 13. Guidecca. 14. S. Maggiore. 15. 
The Giardini Pubblici. 

3. FLORENCE. — (Firenze, lat. Flore7itia), with 
a population of 167,093, was, until 1859, the capi- 
tal of the archduchy of Toscany, and as in ancient times, 
Rome became the most important city in Italy Flor- 
ence maintained its supremacy as the intellectual cen- 
tre of Italy during the middle ages, and bears this distinc- 
tion at the present time. From here emanated the sci- 
entific development of the language and literature and 
the renaissance of art. It contains, in consequence, an 
abundance of art treasures nowhere else met with in such 
profusion. The conspicuous part which it occupies in 
mediaeval history, as instrumental to a great extent in 
deciding the destiny of all Europe, together with 
its charming surroundings, render Florence one of the 
most interesting and delightful cities of the continent, 
and have won for it the title of La bella. It is situated 
on both banks of the shallow Arno in a charming val- 
ley of considerable extent, and is picturesquely sur- 
rounded by the Apennines. Florence is, in spite of 



, America Abroad. 115 

the rivalry of Rome, a very prosperous city. Among 
its antiquities, many of its ancient gates are still pre- 
served, notably the Porta alia Croce with fresco paint- 
ings by Ghirlandajo, the Porta S. Gallo, Porta Romana, 
Porta S. Frediano, and the Porta S. Miniato. Both 
banks of the Arno are united by six bridges, of which 
the oldest is the Ponte alia Gracie, built in 1235, and 
in 1283 the scene of the reconciliation of the Guelphs 
and Ghibellines. The quays known as Lung'' Arno 
(Corsini, Soderini, Nnozw, etc.), contribute largely to 
the magnificent beauty of the city. 

Hotels. — First-class : Grand Hotel Royal de la 
Paix, Italia, Nuovo York, Hotel de la Ville, Vittoria. 

Less pretentions : Washington, Hotel Pension Suisse, 
Ville de Paris, Luna, Albergo di Spagna. 

Sights. — 1. Piazza de la Signoria. 2. Palazzo Vecchio. 
3. Loggia dei Lanzi. 4. Galleria degli Uffizi. 5 
Piazza del Duomo. 6. Battistero S. Giovanni. 7. 
Cathedral. 8. Church of S. Croce. 9. S. Lorenzo. 
10. S.Marco. 11. S. Maria Novella. 12. S. Annun- 
ziata. 13. S. Spirito. 14. Academia delle Belle Arti. 
15. Palazzo Pitti. 16. Boboli Gardens. 17. Views 
from S. Miniato Bello Seguardo, and from the heights 
of Fiesole. 



u6 America Abroad. 

Theatres. — i. Delia Pergola (in the Viadella Pergola, 
operas and ballet). 2. Pagliano (Cherubini, Via Ghi- 
bellina). 3. Niccolini. 4. Delle Logge (French come- 
dies). 5. Nazionale. 6. Alfieri. 7. Rossini. 8. 
Goldoni (Principe Umberto, Arena Nazionale, per- 
formance during day). 

4. ROME. — Ancient Rome, founded by Romulus in 
753 B.C., was located on the famous seven hills, viz. : 
the Palatine, Capitoline, Quirinal, Aventine, Ccelius 
and Viminal, all of which King Severus, at a later peri- 
od, caused to be encircled by walls. They are situated in 
an undulating volcanic plain, which extends from Cape 
Linaro, south of Civittavecchia, to the Promontorio Cir- 
ceo, a distance of about eighty-five miles, and between 
the Apennines and the sea, a width of twenty-five miles. 

The present city lies on both sides of the Tiber, the 
most important river in the Italian peninsula, fourteen 
miles from the Mediterranean. The prospect, from 
one of the hills of Rome — and there are few cities 
more replete with ever varying and delightful views — 
is bounded toward the east by the unbroken chain of 
the Apennines, which rises at a distance of ten to twenty 
miles. In the extreme north towers the indented ridge 



ills 




n8 America Abroad. 

of Soracte, occupying an isolated position in the plain, 
and separated by the Tiber from the principal range 
of the Apennines. More towards the south, on the 
last visible spur of the Sabine Mountains, Palestrina, 
the Praeneste of antiquity, is situated. On the north 
the eye rests on the Janiculus, a volcanic chain of hills 
approaching close to the river. 

On the right-bank of the Tiber lies the more modern 
and smaller portion of the city. This part is divided 
into two halves : on the north the Borgho around the 
Vatican and St. Peters, on the south, lying on the 
river and the slopes of the Janiculus, Trastivere. 

The more ancient portion of the city, properly 
called, lies on the left-bank, partly in the plain which 
extends along the river, the ancient Campus Afartius, 
and partly on the surrounding hills, the far-famed 
seven hills of Rome, the least extensive but histori- 
cally most important of which are the Capitoline and 
Quirinal. 

Hotels. — First-class : Isole Brittaniche, Albergo 
di Russia, di Europa. 

Less pretentious : Del Sole, Degli Tre Re, Anglo- 
Americano, Tellenbach. 



America Abroad. 119 

Sights.— 1. Corso. 2. Piazza del Popolo. 3. Eng- 
lish Church. 4. Pincio. 5. Villa Medici. 6. Piazza 
di Spagna. 7. Piazza Colonna. 8. Palazzo Chigi. 
9. Sciarra Colonna. 10. Palazzo Doria. n. Villa 
Borghese. 12. Villa Ludovisi. 13. Villa Albani. 14. 
Palazzo Barberini. 15. Quirinal. 16. Thermae of 
Diocletian. 17. Temple of Minerva Medica. 18 
Porta Maggiore. 19. Mausoleum of Augustus. 20. 
Pantheon. 21. Ghetto or Jewish quarters. 22. Co- 
lonade of Octavia. 23. Piazza del Campidoglia. 24. 
Palazzo del Senatore. 25. Capitol. 26. Tarpeian Rock. 
27. Forum Romanorum. 28. Temple of Saturn. 29. 
Colonade of the Twelve Gods. 30. Temple of Ves- 
pasia. 31. Temple of Concordia. 32. Triumphal 
Arch of Septimus Severus. 33. Rostra. 34. Column 
of Phocas. 35. Catacombs. 36. Arch of Titus. 37. 
Colosseum, and numerous churches. 

5. NAPLES. 

Note: — Arrival by railway: The station is at the S. E. end 
of the town. The formalities of the municipal custom-house are 
very lenient and speedily gone through with. Hotel and public 
omnibuses and fiacres are in waiting. 

Arrival by steamboat: The steamers anchor outside the Porto 
Grande, and a small boat conveys the traveller to the Dogana, 
where the baggage is examined and passed. Omnibuses and 
nacres are also in waiting here. 



120 America Abroad. 

Naples, the most populous city in Italy, contains 
nearly 500,000 inhabitants. Its charming appearance 
is almost unexcelled, and the superb majesty and 
beauty of the bay has from the earliest times been the 
object of enthusiastic admiration, and drawn thither 
thousands of visitors annually. In point of.architecture, 
either modern or antique, Naples offers rather few 
attractions ; and the narrow, dingy streets, the ponder- 
ously built, close and badly constructed houses, ren- 
dered more obscure if possible by ugly balconies, are 
far from inviting. 

This scarcity of attractiveness and antiquity in 
buildings in the city confines, is however, amply 
compensated by the recent discovery of Herculaneum 
and Pompeii, and the innumerable treasures which the 
excavations now being prosecuted under the super- 
vision of »the Government have brought to light. 

Naples lies at the base and partly on the sides of 
several hardly appreciable elevations of ground, rising 
from the Mediterranean coast in the form of a crescent, 
for a distance of about 35 miles from the Capo di 
Meseno, its north-west boundary, to the Punta della 
Campanello, its south-east limit. It is separated from 
the sea by the islands of Procida and Ischia towards 



America Abroad. 121 

the north, and Capri towards the south. At the north- 
ern or hilly district, in the middle of the plain, rises 
lofty and grand Mount Vesuvius with Mount Somma, a 
semi-circular wall of an earfjjly cone at its side. The 
plain is here divided into two separate districts, inter- 
sected by the rivers Sarno and Sebeto. Beyond the 
Sarno are situated the ruins of Pompeii, and Resina 
on the site of Herculaneum. 

From the Capo di Monte, east towards the Sebeto, 
lies the greater and most ancient part of Naples, 
crossed from north to the south by the Toledo or 
Strada Roma, the principal street, continuing towards 
the north as the Strada Nuova di Capodimonte. The 
city has, on the whole, a modern aspect. 

Hotels. — First-class: Vittoria, United States, 
Hotel des Etrangers, Delle Crocelle, Gran Bretagna. 

Less pretentious : Hotel de Russie, Hotel de 
Geneve, Hotel Montpelier, Bella Venezia. 

Sights. — I. Side towards the sea : — 

1. Castel dell' Ovo. 2. S. Francesco di Paola (an 
imitation of the Pantheon at Rome). 3. Palazzo 
Reale. 4. Municipio. 5. S. Giacomo degli Spa- 



122 America Abroad. 

gnuoli. 6. Fontana Medina. 7. Castel Nuovo. 8. 
Porto Militare. 9. Porto Grande. 10. Light-house. 

II. Toledo, Capodimonte : — 

1. Catacombs. 2. Palazzo di Capodimonte. 3. Villa 
Regina Isabella or " Gallo." 4. Observatory. 

III. The old town : — 

1. L'Incoronata. 2. Palazzo Fondi. 3. S. Maria la 
Nuova. 4. General Post and Telegraph Office. 5. S. 
Anna de' Lombardi or Monte Oliveto. 6. Gesu Nuovo. 
7. S. Chiara. 8. S. Domenico. 9. La Capella di 
San Severe 10. Angelo a Nilo. 11. University. 
12. S. Severino e Sosio. 13. Cemeteries. 14. Ca- 
thedral. 15. Santa Restituta. 16. S. Paolo Maggiore. 
17. S. Lorenzo. 18. Conservatory of Music. 19. 
Museo Nazionale (with very complete collections of 
Pompeian antiquities, etc., etc.). 20. Villa Nazionale. 
21. The Mergellina on the Posilipo. 22. Grotto of 
Sejanus (at the Punta di Coroglio near the sea). 23. 
Island of Nisida on the Bay. 24. Grotto di Posilipo. 
25. Excursions to Salerno (including Portici, Pompeii, 
etc., 2 hours). Excursion to Capri (Blue Grotto, etc.). 

Theatres. — The performances usually begin at 8 and 



America Abroad. 



123 



last till nearly midnight. 1. S. Carlo (one of the 
largest theatres in Europe ; operas and ballet only). 

2. Mercandante (or Fondo) in the Strada del Molo. 

3. Fiorentini, in the street of the same name. 4. Tea- 
tro Nuovo. 5. Fenice Goldoni, Giardino d' Inverno 
at the Villa Reale. 6. San Carlino, with Puncinello or 
Punch and Judy show. 7. Teatro Partenope on the 
Piazza Cavour. 




124 America Abroad. 



CHAPTER XIV. 

I . — Direct routes on the principal railways of the 

Continent. 

Note. — The time marked after each station, is the accumulated 
time from the place of first departure, and should not be con- 
founded with the time between each station. The time and fares 
are for continuous trips and for Express Trains, unless otherwise 
indicated. The " Courrier " Trains in Germany, and the "Ex- 
press " Trains in France carry only first and second-class passen- 
gers. Times and Fares of Routes enumerated in the preceding 
chapters refer generally to ordinary Trains, and therefore do not 
always correspond with those below. 

GERMANY. 

( Fifty pounds baggage free. ) 

i. Bremen — Uelzen, Time: 2:25; Stendal, 4:50; 
Berlin, 6:50. Fares : $6.60 ; 4.90 ; 3.45, respect- 
ively. 

2. Bremen— Uelzen, Stendal, Magdeburg, time, 5:50 ; 



America Abroad. 125 

Shonebeck, 6:07; Cothen, 6:45 > Halle, 7:25 ; 
Leipzig, 8:05. Fares : $7.60 ; 5.65 ; 4.10. 

3. Bremen — Verden, lime, 1:00; Wunstorf, 3:05; 

Hannover, 3:30. Fares: $3.40; 2,50; 1.70 (Hamm- 
Cologne, see No. 9). 

4. Bremen — Rotenburg, time, 58 m. ; Harburg, 2:15 ; 

Hamburg, 2:32. Fares : $2.00; 1.60; 1.20 ; fourth- 
class, 62 cts. 

5. Berlin — Stettin, time. 2:28; Stargard, 3:23; Belgard, 

5:25 ; Coslin, 5:55 ; Stolp, 7:15; Zoppot, 9:40; 
Danzig, 10:00. Fares: $ 9.40 ; 7.10; 4.70. 

6. Berlin — Fiirstenwalde, time, 1:10 ; Frankfort-on- 

the-Oder, 1:45; Guben, 2:15; Sommerfeld, 2:30; 
Sorau, 4:05; Hansdorf, 4:16; Kohlfurt, 5:00; 
Bunzlau, 6:00; Liegnitz, 7:10; Neumarkt, Bres- 
lau, 8:26. Fares : '$8. 00 ; 6.00 ; 3.42. 

7. Berlin — Giiterbog, time, 1:12 ; Wittenberg, 1:43 '■> 

Bitterfeld, 2:25; Leipzig, 3:20. Fares: $3.20; 
2.40 ; 1.70. 

8. Berlin — Halle, time, 3:10; Weissenfels, 3:46; Gross- 

Heringen, 4:22; Weimar, 4:59; Erfurt, 5:40; 
Gotha, 6:00 ; Eisenach, 6:28 ; Bebra, 7:30 ; 
Fulda, 8:30; Elm, 9:07; Salmiinster, Gelnhausen, 



126 America Abroad. 

9:48; Hanau, 10:04; Frankfort-on-the-Main, 
10:40. Fares : $8.30; 5.50; 3.50. 
9. Berlin — Potsdam, time, 27 m.; Brandenburg, 1:02; 
Magdeburg, 2:12; Lehrte, 5:35; {Hannover, 6:00 
from Berlin; Minden,7:i5); Minden, 8:00; Lohne 
8:50; Bielefeld, 10:00; Hamm, 11:32; Dortmund, 
12:00. Fares: $8.40; 6.50; 4.45. Dortmund, Ober- 
hausen, 53 m.; Diisseldorf, 1:30; Cologne, 2:15. 
Fares : $2.05 ; 1.50; 1.00, extra, from Dortmund. 

10. Frankfort-on-the-Main — Hanau, time, 19 m.; Asch- 

affen-burg, 1:00; Gemiinden, 2:12; Wiirzburg, 
3:00; Steinach, 4:45; Ansbach, 5:26; Gunzenhau- 
sen, 6:00; Treuchtlingen, 1 ] '.30. Then Treuchtlingen 
via Eichstadt, 8:10 ; Ingolstadt, 8:42 ; Munich, 
10:28 from Frankfort-on-the-Main. Fares: about 

$7-5° ; 5-30 ; 4-00. 

11. Frankfort-on-the-Main — Mainz, Worms, time, 53 

m.; Ludwigshafen, 1:20; Schifferstadt, 1:40; Neu- 
stadt, 2:06; Landau, 2:39; Winden, 2:53; Weissen- 
burg, 3:14; Hagenau, 3:50; Strassburg, 4:35 
from Mainz. Fares : about $3.70 ; 2.80 ; 2.00. 



America Abroad. 127 



AUSTRIA. 



12. Vienna— Tuln, Absdorf, time, 1:00; Eggenburg, 

i:5i;G6pfritz, 2:53;Gmiind,3:47; Budweis, 5:16; 
Strakonic, 6:35 ; Pilsen, 8:10; Marienbad, 10:10 ; 
Eger, 10:52. Fares ; $8.60 ; 6.50 ; 4.40 ; fourth- 
class, $2. 20. 

13. Vienna— Brurm, time, 3:35; Trtibau, 5:30; Pardu- 

bitz,6:35;Kolin, 7 124; Prague, 8:30; Kralup, 9:38; 
Aussig, 10: to; Bodenbach, 11:26; Dresden, 13:21; 
Fares : $10.20; 7.60; 5.20. (Berlin to Dresden, 
4 hrs.) 

14. Vienna — St. Polten, time, 1:30; Amstetten, 3:00; St. 

Valentine, 3:55 ; Linz, 4:30 ; Wels, 5:21 ; Neu- 
markt, 6:10; Braunau, 9:00; Simbach. Fares: 
$5.80; 4.40; 2.90. (Simbach to Munich, 3:30.) 

FRANCE. 

15. Paris — Amiens, time, 3:40 ; Arras, 5:30 ; Haze- 

brouck, 8:04; Calais, 10 hrs. Fares : $6.65; 5.20; 
3.80. 

16. Paris — Rouen, time, 2:40; Havre, 4:38. Fares : 

$5-35 ; 4-oo ; 3.00. 



128 America Abroad. 

17. Paris — Caen, time, 5:18; Cherbourg, 8:15. Fares: 

$8.70; 6.50 ; 4.75. ' 

18. Paris — (St. Lazare) Versailles, 40 m. 

19. Paris — (Montparnasse) Versailles, 40 m. 

20. Paris — Orleans, time, 2:05; Tours, 4:00; Poictiers, 

5:50 ; Coutras, 10:00 ; Bordeaux, 12:00. Fares: 

$13.50; 10.15 ; 7-5°- 

21. Paris — Orleans, time,. 5:20 ; Vierzon, 7:50; St. Sul- 

pice, 14:00; Pe'rigeux, 18:00. Fares: $17.00; 

12.75; 9- 2 5- 

22. Paris — Dijon, time, 7:50; Macon, 10:55; Lyons, 

13:00; Valence, 16:50; Tarascon, 21:00; Mar- 
seilles, 24:35. Fares: $20.00; 15.20; 11. 15. 

23. Paris — Meaux, time, 40 m. ; Epernay, 2 140 ; Chalons, 

3:40; Blesme, 4:28; Frouard, 7:10; Nancy, 7:20; 
Luneville, 8:10; Avricourt, 8:50. Fares: $10.00; 
7.20; 5.30. (Strassburg from Paris, 11:00 lirs.) 

HOLLAND. 

24. The Hague — Rotterdam, time, 10 m. ; Gouda, $s m - 5 

Utrecht, t:io; Arnheim, 2:15; Emmerich, 3:00. 
Fares: $2.50; 2.00; 1.27. (Cologne, 6:00; Berlin, 
22:00.) 



America Abroad. 129 

25. The Hague. — Rotterdam, Gouda, Amsterdam, time, 

1:45. Fares, $1.25; 1.00; 60 cts. 

26. Amsterdam. — Haarlem, time, 33 m.; The Hague, 

2:00; Rotterdam, 2 115. Fares: $1.50; 1.15; 75 cts. 

27. Amsterdam. — Hilversum, time, 32 m.; Utrecht, 

43 m. Fares: 75 cts.; 60 cts.; 35 cts. 

28. Rotterdam. — Gouda, Amsterdam, time, 1:35. Fares: 

$1.20; 95 cts.; 55 cts. 

BELGIUM. 

29. Brussels. — Ghent, time, 1:10; Brugge, 1:50; Ostend, 

2:20. Fares: $1.70; 1.25; 85 cts. 

30. Brussels. — Mecheln, time, 25 m.; Antwerp, 58 m. 

Fares: 62 cts.; 48 cts.; 30 cts. 

31. Brussels. — Braine-le-Comte, time, 1:02; Jurbise, 

1:40; Mons, 2:00; St. Ghislain, 2:21; Quivrain, 
2:45; Paris, 8.05. Fares: $7.25; 5.40; 4.00. 

32. Aiitwerp. — Mecheln, time, 35 m.; Brussels, 58 m. 

Fares: 62 cts.; 48 cts.; 30 cts. 

SWITZERLAND. 

33. Basel. — (Bale) Lietel, time, 21 m.; Sissach, 33 m.; 

Olten, 1:12; Aarau, 1:31; Wildegg, 1:0; Turgi, 



130 America Abroad. 

2:05; Baden, 2:20; Zurich, 3:00. Fares: $2.00, 
1.60; 1. 00. 

34. Basel. — Olten, time, 1:12; Herzogenbuchsee, 2:50; 

Berne, 4:00. Fares: $2.10, 1.50, 1,15. Romont, 
6:13; Lausanne, 7.30; Geneva, 9:10. Fares: 

$5-5°, 3-9o, 2.85. 

35. Basel — via Neufchatel, Geneva, 9 hrs. Fares: $5.30 

3.80, 2.80. 

36. Zurich — via Zug, time, 1:25; Lucerne, 2:20. Fares: 

$1.30; 95 cts.; 55 cts. 

ITALY. 

37. Turin. — Novara, time, 2:40; Milan, 3:45; Bergamo, 

5:10, Verona, 7:26; Padua, 9:40; Venice, 10:35. 
Fares: $9.80, 7.00, 5.00. 

38. Modane — (Mt.Cenis)Turin, time, 4:30; Alessandria, 

6.50; Piacenza, 8:50; Bologna, 11:56; Pistoja, 
15:50; Florence, 16:40. Fares: $12.25, 9.25,6.75. 
(Rome, 26:50; Naples, 34:20.) 

39. Milan — (Arona) Mortara, time, 1:15; Alessandria, 

2:45, Genoa, 5:15. Fares: $3.30, 2.35, 1.90. 

40. Florence. — Pisa, time, 2:40; Leghorn (Livorno), 

3:10; Grosseto, 7:30; Civita-vecchia, 10:20; 
Rome, 12:10. Fares: $8.20; 5.70. 



America Abroad. 131 

41. Florence. — Foligno, time, 5.40; Rome, 10:05. 

Fares: $8.20, 5.70. 

42. Rome. — Ceprano, time, 4:10; Capua, 8:10; Naples, 

9:59. Fares: $6.30, 4.40. 

II.— CIRCULAR TOURS. 

During the travelling season, the principal rail- 
way companies on the Continent, issue excursion 
tickets at greatly reduced prices. These round-trips 
embrace the leading places of interest throughout the 
country. We give a list of these below, though some 
may be subject to slight changes. Tours not marked 
with time are usually for 30 days. 

FROM PARIS. 

1. Paris, Nancy, Avricourt, Strassburg, Ludwigs- 
hafen, Kehl, Baden-Baden, Karlsruhe, Heidelberg, 
Mannheim, Darmstadt, Frankfort, Mainz, Wiesbaden, 
Riidesheim, Ems, Coblenz, Kappellen, Bonn, Aix-la- 
Chapelle, Liege, Namur, Charleroi, Brussels, Valen- 
cienne, Paris. First-class, about $30.00; Second-class, 
$22.00. 

2. Paris, Belfort, Basel, Lucerne, Zug, Zurich, 



132 America Abroad. 

ft 

Rapperswyl, Wessen, Glarus, Wadeswyl, Ziegelbruck, 
Chur, via Bodensee to Rorschach, Constance, Singen, 
Schaffhausen, Basel, Miihlheim, Freiburg, Offenburg, 
Baden-Baden, Strassburg, Paris. First-class, $36.00; 
Second class, $27.00. 

3. Paris, Belfort, Basel, Lucerne, Alpnacht, 
Brienz, Giesbach, Interlaken, Thun, Berne, Freiburg, 
Lausanne, Geneva, Dijon, Paris. First-class, $30.00; 
Second-class, $22.50; tickets good for 2 months about 
10 per cent, higher. 

FROM STATIONS IN GERMANY 
To Saxony and Bohemia. 

1. Berlin, Roderau, Dresden, Leipzig, Berlin. 
Second-class, $6.00; Third-class $4.00 — good for ten 
days. 

2. Dresden, Schandau, Aussig, Teplitz, Dux, 
Carlsbad, Eger, Franzensbad, Zwickau, Chemnitz, 
Freiberg, Dresden. Second-class, about $7; Third-class, 

$6.50. 

To Bavaria, Saxony ana Austria. 

1. Berlin, Leipzig, Reichenbach, Eger, Regens- 
burg, Munich, Regensburg, Fiirth, Pilsen, Prague,Dres- 



America Abi'oad. 133 

den, Berlin. Second-class, $19.00; Third-class, $13.00. 

2. Berlin, Jiiterbog, Wittenberg, Leipzig, Reichen- 
bach, Hof, Bayreuth, Bamberg, Niirnberg, Munich, 
Regensburg, Eger, Reichenbach, Leipzig, Berlin. 
Second-class, $18.00; Third-class, $13.00. 

3. Niirnberg, Regensburg, Passau, (also by steam- 
boat to Vienna), Vienna, Budweis, Pilsen, Marienbad, 
Eger, Weiden, Niirnberg. Second-class, $14.00; Third- 
class, $11.00. 

To Austria and if angaria. 

i. Leipzig, Altenburg, Reichenbach, Franzens- 
bad, Eger, Marienbad, Pilsen, Budweis, Vienna, Kolin, 
Jungbunzlau, Bodenbach, Schandau, Konigstein, 
Dresden, Leipzig. Second-class, $17.50; Third-class, 
$10.50. 

2. Berlin,Gorlitz, Seidenberg,Friedland, Reichen- 
berg, Jungbunzlau, Kolin, Prague, Aussig, Bodenbach, 
Schandau, Konigstein, Dresden, Neustadt, Berlin. 
Second-class, $20.00; Third-class, $13.00. 

3. Same as far as Vienna, thence to Salzburg, 
Rosenheim, Munich, Niirnberg, Hof, Bamberg, Reich- 
enbach, Leipzig, Berlin. Second-class, $28.00; Third- 
class, $19.00. 



134 America Abroad. 

4. Hamburg, Berlin, Dresden, Konigstein, Schan- 
dau, Aussig, Leitmeritz, Prague, Vienna, Linz, Salz- 
burg, Munich, Ntirnberg,. Bamberg, Hof, Leipzig, 
Berlin, Hamburg. Second-class, $35.00; Third-class, 
$24.00 — good for 45 days. 

To Th'uringia and Harz Mountains. 

1. Erfurt, Weimar, Goschwitz, Gera, Weissenfels, 
Erfurt ; Second-class, $4.00 ; Third-class, $2.80. 

2. Hannover, Northeim, Nordhausen, Sonderhau- 
sen, Erfurt, Gotha, Eisenach, Gerstungen, Bebra, Cas- 
sel, Gottingen, Hannover. Second-class, $6.50 ; Third- 
class, 5.00 — good for ten days. 

3. Berlin to Ballenstedt, Blankenburg, Thale, 
Wernigerode. Second-class, $4.00 ; Third-class, 3.00 
— good for ten days. 

To the rivers Rhine, Main, Mosel and Saar. 

1. Berlin via Halle, Nordhausen, Cassel, Eisenach, 
Bebra, Hanau, Frankfort, then either via Mainz, 
Bingen, or via Wiesbaden, Oberlahnstein to Coblenz 
and Cologne, then either via Hannover, Lehrte, Ber- 



America Abroad. 135 

lin, or via Kreiensen, Magdeburg to Berlin. Second- 
class, $17.00 ; Third-class, 10.50. 

2. Berlin to Frankfort as foregoing, thence Rii- 
desheim or Bingen, Kreuznach, Saarbriicken, Metz, 
Luxemburg, Trier, Cologne, and thence again as per 
trip No. 1. to Berlin. Second-class, $21.00 ; Third- 
class, 14.00. 

3. Hamburg, Bremen, Miinster, Cologne, Mainz, 
Ludwigshafen, Mannheim, Heidelberg, Frankfort, 
Cassel, Hamburg, same from Bremen. Second-class, 
$16.00 ; Third-class, 11.00. 

4. Cologne, Bonn, Coblenz, Oberlahnstein, Ems, 
Nassau, Dietz, Limburg, Weilburg, Wetzlar, Deutz, 
Cologne. Second-class, $4.00 ; Third-class, 2.80. 

From Berlin. 

1. Berlin to Dresden, Leipzig, Berlin. First-class, 
$6.50 ; Second-class, 5.00 ; Third-class, 3.50. 

2. Berlin, Halle, Weimar, Erfurt, Gotha, Eisenach, 
Gerstungen, Hersfeld, Fulda, Gelnhausen, Hanau, 
Wiesbaden, Oberlahnstein, Coblenz, Cologne, Dussel- 
dorf, Altenessen, Dortmund, Hamm, Bielefeld, Minden, 
Hannover, Brunswick, Oschersleben, Magdeburg, Ber- 



136 America Abroad. 

lin. First-class, $21.00; Second-class, 15.00; Third- 
class, 11.00. 

3. Berlin, Roderau, Dresden, Krippen, Boden- 
bach, Prague, Briinn, Vienna, Gratz, Pragerhof, Ofen, 
Pest, Marchegg, Briinn, Pardubitz, Koniggratz, Jo- 
sephstadt, Parschnitz, Liebau, Hirschberg, Frankfort- 
on-the-Oder, Berlin. First-class, $43. 00; Second-class, 
28.00; Third-class, 22.00. 

From Bremen. 

1. Bremen, Hannover, Cassel, Marburg, Frank- 
fort, Mainz, Castel, Wiesbaden, Eltville, Riidesheim 
(or Bingen, Coblenz), Oberlahnstein, Ems, Wetzlar, 
Giessen, Marburg, Cassel, Hannover, Bremen. Second- 
class, $13.00; Third-class, 8.40. 

2. Bremen, Hannover, Cassel, Nauheim, Frank- 
fort, Heidelberg, Carlsruhe, Baden, Appenweier, Of- 
fenburg, Freiburg, Mullheim, Basel, Waldshut, Neu- 
hausen, Schaffhausen, Constance, Bodensee, Fried- 
richshafen, Ulm, Stuttgart, Heilbronn, Jaxtfeld, Wim- 
pfen, Heidelberg, Frankfort, Bremen. First-class, 
$25.00 ; Second-class, 17.50 ; Third-class, 12.00. 

3. Bremen, Hannover, Brunswick, Goslar, and 
back via Thale, Oschersleben, Vienenburg, Brunswick, 



America Abroad. 137 

Hannover, Bremen. Second-class, §5. 00 ; Third-class, 
$3-7° — the same from Hamburg. 

FROM STATIONS IN BELGIUM. 
To the Rhine. 

1. Brussels, Liege, (Liittich), Spa, Aix-la-Chapelle 
(Aachen), Cologne, Mayence (Mainz), Darmstadt, 
Ems, Wiesbaden, Mannheim, Baden-Baden, Strass- 
burg, Nancy, Paris, St. Quentin or Valenciennes, Hau- 
mont or Quivrain, Namur, Brussels — one month. Fare: 
First-class, $28.03. 

To Holland. 

2. Brussels, Antwerp (Anvers), Rotterdam, The 
Hague, Amsterdam, Amersfoort, Zwolle, Arnheim, 
Utrecht, Tilburg, Antwerp, Brussels — 15 days. Fare: 
First-class, $9.40. 

To Flanders. 

3. Brussels, Malines, Antwerp, St. Nicholas,Gand, 

Bruges, Ostend, Roulers, Ypres, Courtrai, Tournai, 

Braine-le-Comte, Brussels — 15 days. Fare: First-class, 

$5-32. 

To the Meuse. 

4. Brussels, Malines, Louvain, Liege, Verviers, 



138 America Abroad. 

Spa, Huy, Namur, Dinant, Brussels — 15 days. First- 
class, $4-4°- 

FROM STATIONS IN ITALY. 

To Northern and Central Italy. 

1. Milan, Turin, Alessandria, Genoa, Piacenza, 
Milan — 15 days. Fares: First-class, $8.00; Second- 
class, $5.70; Third-class, $4.10. 

2. Milan, Verona, Padua, Venice, Bologna, Flor- 
ence, Bologna, Piacenza, Lodi, Milan — 20 days. Fares: 
$14.00, $10.50, $7.60. 

3. Turin, Milan, Padua, Venice, Bologna, Flor- 
ence, Bologna, Piacenza, Alessandria, Genoa, Turin — 
30 days. Fares: $16.20, $12.20, $9.00. 

4. Turin, Milan, Padua, Venice, Bologna, Flor- 
ence, Empoli, Pisa, Lucca, Pistoja, Bologna, Piacenza, 
Alessandria, Genoa, Turin — 35 days. Fares: $17.75, 
$13.00, $9.50. 

To Central and Southern Italy. 

5. Turin, Milan, Padua, Venice, Bologna, Flor- 
ence, Foligno, Rome, Ceprano, Naples, Rome, Civita- 
vecchia, Leghorn, Pisa, Florence, Bologna, Piacenza, 
Alessandria, Genoa, Turin — 50 days. $33.50, $24.00, 
$16.15. 



America Abroad. 139 

III— FOREIGN MONEY 
and its comparative value in the United States. 

These values vary somewhat according to the fluctuations of the rates of 

exchange. 

GERMANY. 

GOLD. 

20 Marks. $4 75 

I0 " 237^ 

- << 1 18^ 

SILVER. 

5 Marks J l8 ^ 

3 " (Thalers, still in circulation) 70% 

2 " 47K 

j " ... 23^ 

50 Pfennings (100 Pfennings=i Mark n^ 

20 " 5 



NICKEL. 

10 Pfennings 2 /^ 

5 " *# 

COPPER. 

2 Pfennings / 2 

I " % 

PAPER. 

5,000, I, coo, 500, 100, 50, 20 and 5 Mark-notes. 



140 America Abroad. 

AUSTRIA. 

GOLD. 

(Value fluctuates.) 

SILVER. 
1 Thaler $0 70^ 

1 Florin 41 

Yz " 10% 

Y " 10X 

20 Kreutzers (too Kreutzers=i Florin) 8 

10 " . 4 

5 " 2 

COPPER. 

2 Kreutzers I 

1 " Yz 

PAPER. 

1,000, 100, 50, 10, 5 and 1 Florin-notes. 
HOLLAND. 

GOLD. 

10 Guilders $4 00 

5 " 2 00 

SILVER. 

2 y 2 " (20 Stivers=i Guilder) I 00 

1 " 40 

Yz " • 20 

50 cents, 25, 10, 5 Nickel, and 2 and 1 Copper. 



America Abroad. 141 

PAPER. 

500 Guilders to 1 Guilder. 

GREAT BRITAIN. 

GOLD. 

I Guinea (few in circulation) $5 08 

1 Sovereign (1 £) 485 

%. " 2 42 K 

SILVER. 

I Crown (5 shillings) 1 203^ 

Vz " 60X 

I Florin (two shillings) 48 

1 Shilling {1 £=10 shillings) 24 

6 Pence (12 pence=i shilling) 12 

4 Pence 8 

3 Pence 6 

2 Pence 4 

COPPER. 

1 Penny (about) 2 

Vz " " 1 

PAPER. 

100, 50, 30, 20, 10, 5 £ notes and Scotch and Irish 
1 £ notes. 



142 America Abroad. 

FRANCE, 

(Belgium, Italy and Switzerland.) 

GOLD. 

ioo Francs $19 50 

50 " 9 75 

20 ' ' (Napoleon) 3 83 

10 *.« 1 91^ 

5 " 95^ 

SILVER. 

5 Francs 95^ 

2^ " 48 

2 " 38^ 

1 " 19X 

50 Centimes (100=1 Franc) 9^ 

25 " 5 

20 " (about) 4 

10 " " 2 

5 " " 1 

NICKEL. 

20 Centimes 4 

10 " 2 

5 " .-. 1 

COPPER. 

10 Centimes 2 

5 " (Sou) 1 

1 " - I 

f 98 



RED STAR LINE. 

United States and Royal Belgian Mail Steamers 
EVERY SATURDAY FOR ANTWERP. 

The splendid first-class, full-powered Steamers 

Waesland, Rhynland, Belgenland, Zeeland, 
Nederland, Switzerland, Taderland. 

New Steamers: "Pennland" (will be ready in March); 
" Westernland " (building). 



Saloons, State-rooms, Smoking and 
Bath-rooms amidships. 

SECOND CABIN ACCOMMODATION UNEXCELLED. 

State-rooms all on main deck. 
No horses, cattle, sheep or pigs carried. 



First Cabin, $75 and $100.— Return Tickets, $125 and $175. 

Second Cabin, outward, $55 ; Prepaid, $55 ; 

Excursion, $100. 



PETER WRIGHT & SONS, General Agents, 

55 Broadway, New York. 





LLOYD S. S. 




y. 



IMPERIAL GERMAN MAIL. 



Steamships. 




Captains . 


Elbe, 


5000 Tons, 


WlLLIGEROD. 


Neckar, . 


3500 " 


Bussius. 


Oder, 


3500 " 


Unduetsch. 


Mosel, 


3500 *«■ 


Hesse. 


Rhein, . 


3500 " 


Neynaber. 


Main, 


3500 " 


Barre. 


Donau, . 


3500 " 


RlNGK. 


General Werder, 


3500 " 


Christoffers, 


Braunschweig, 


3500 " 


POHLE. 


Habsburg, . 


3500 " 






Hohenzollern, 


3500 " 


Sander. 


Hohenstaufen, . 


3500 " 


Himbeck. 


Salier, 


3500 " 


Wiegand. 


Nurnberg, . 


3500 " 


Jaeger. 



Building : S. S. WERRA, of 6000 Tons and 7000 
Horsepower, indicated. 

Steamers sail from Bremen Pier, Foot of Second Street, 

Hofooken, N. J., at 2 P. M. precisely, with the exception 

of S. S. Elbe, which sails at the time specified 

in the list of sailings. 

They call at Southampton to land passengers, mail and specie 
for London and Paris, and proceed for Bremen without further 
delay. 

These steamers carry no cattle nor pigs. 

Steamers leave Southampton every Monday, Wednesday and 
Friday evening for Havre. 

OELRICHS & CO., General Agents, 



P. O. Box 137. 



2 Bowling Green, New York. 



IMPERIAL GERMAN MAIL. 



Hamburg-American Packet Co. 

ALBINGIA ALLEMANNIA, BOHEMIA, 

CIMBRIA, FRISIA, GELLERT, 

HAMMONIA, HERDER, LESSING, 

RHENANIA, RUGIA, SILESIA, 

SUEVIA, THURINGIA, VANDALIA, 

WESTPHALIA, WIELAND. 



DIRECT WEEKLY LINE 



— TO 



ENGLAND, FRANCE AND GERMANY. 

LEAVING NEW YORK 

Every Thursday and: every Saturday, from Hamburg Pier, Hoboken* 



— FOR — 

PLYMOUTH (London,) CHERBOURG (Paris), and HAMBURG, 

Thereby accommodating passengers who would avoid the discomforts of crossing the 
English Channel. 

RETURNING FROM 

HAMBURG EVERY WEDNESDAY AND EVERY SUNDAY, 

Via Havre, taking passengers for Southampton or London without extra charge. 
RATES OF PASSAGE. 

From New York.— First Cabin, $100. Second Cabin, $60. Steerage, $30. (First 
Cabin, from November 1st to April 1st, $70 and $80.) 

From Hamburg, Havre, Southampton or London. — First Cabin, $120. 
Second Cabin, $72. Steerage, $27. 

Round Trip Tickets.— First Cabin, $185. Second Cabin, $110. Steerage, $50. 
(First Cabin, from November 1st to April 1st, $165.) 

Children under 12 years of age, half price. Infants free. 

Passengers landing at Plymouth receive free R. R. passage to London, or any 
Station in the South of England. Railroad Tickets from Cherbourg to Paris, and from 
Paris to Havre, issued at reduced rates. Steerage passengers to and from Denmark, 
Norway and Sweden, booked at very low rates. The First Cabin is fitted up in mag- 
nificent style. Each State-room contains two berths and a sofa. The Second Cabin 
is comfortably furnished : is situated on the same deck forward of the First Cabin, and 
like the latter, heated by Steam, while the surrounding State-rooms are equally well 
lighted and ventilated. The Steerage accommodations are commodious, and the 
appointments and table unsurpassed. An experienced Physician is attached to every 
Steamer. No charge for medical attendance. Stewards and Stewardesses speak- 
ing several languages are ready to attend to the wants of passengers. 



61 



. B. RICHARD & CO. 

General Passenger Agents, 

Broadway, New York. 



61 



KUNHARDT & CO. 

General Agents. 

Broad St., New York. 



Rotterdam Line 



STEAMERS 

ROTTERDAM, ZAANDAM, 

SCHIEDAM, W. A. SCHOLTEN, 

AMSTERDAM, J>. CALAND, 

EDAM, MAAS 9 

SAIL FROM 

Company's Pier No. 54, North River, New York 

Foot of 24th Street. 



I*. W . MORRIS, General Passenger Agent, 
No. 50 Broadway, New York. 




<y\ IFTH M.TEMUE 

HITCHCOCK, DARLING & CO., Proprietors. 

Fifth Avenue, cor. 23d and 24th Streets, 

Facing Madison Square, 

FEW TOBK. 



Appointments for the comfort of guests unexcelled by any 
Hotel in the world. 



SUMMIT HOTEL, 

65 BOWERY, corner Canal Street, 

NEW YORK. 



On the European Plan. 

ZPTLHtTCHP^A-Xi CIT"5T C-A.jR,S PASS THE 3DOOJR,. 

Atlantic and Pacific Telegraph Office, 

GEO. BtrOKBi^T, PBOP. 



LUHDBORGS PERFUMES. 

THE LATEST aSTOVELTIBS AIRE 

EDENIA 



AND 




'ff 



/ 



IKlr tiOSEi 



LUNDBORG'S 

RHENISH COLOGNE and 

CALIFORNIA WATER 

For the Toilet and Bath, Delightfully Fragrant and Refreshing. 



Put up in handsome Wicker Bottles for the convenience of Tourists. 



Young, Ladd & Coffin, 

Proprietors and Manufacturers, 
No. 24 Barclay St., corner Church, 

zrsnsw york, 

and 7 Snow Hill, Kolborn Viaduct, London. 



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